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Djangi-kosh

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Djangi-tau (16568 ft). E summit through E buttress T 
Dyh-Tau (17073 ft). Main Summit through Right S. Buttress. T 

Djangi-kosh Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 16,000'
Location: 43.0287, 43.1083 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 632
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Artem Lebedev on May 22, 2008
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Description 

Base camp for ascents to major peaks of Bezengi wall. There is a small bunkhouse, but it's usually used only in case of search and rescue operations. Stay in the improvised campground nearby.

Getting There 

from Bezengi Camp 6-8 hours hike through Bezengi Glacier. Glacier is rarely covered with snow and there is no need for rope.

Climbing Season

For the Europe area.

Weather station 70.7 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Djangi-kosh
Rock Climbing Photo: Scheme of the Djangi Massif

Djangi-tau (16568 ft). E summit through E buttress 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b M2- PG13  Europe : Russia : ... : Djangi-kosh
Rated "4b" in Russian classification. There are two possible ways from moraine campground to Bezengi glacier and rock base of NE ridge of Djangi: 1) Descent from the campground to the right from the icefall step of the Bezengi glacier, 60-150 ft. to the left of the NE ridge of Djangi. (Caution: there is icefall on the rocks). This route is rarely done. 2) Descent from the campground to the left of the icefall step of the Bezengi glacier, directly through the glacier center up toward the Dyh...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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