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Dixon Lake

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Dixon Lake Rock Climbing 

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Location: 33.1607, -117.046 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 32,494
Administrators: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Feb 28, 2006
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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An old topo of mine

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

The Place 

This oldie but goody lies in north Escondido, in the city park of Dixon Lake. This climbing area is a small outcrop of rocks, that has several clean cracks and faces for the novice/intermediate to set up. Its been used and abused, with partiers and cavalier bolters having their way with the place, but beyond the ill-treated history lies several routes that will remain worthy of many new climbers aspirations. Some bouldering exists, although compared to other areas it may seem a bit contrived.

Locals have done every line on every boulder and recorded so. Its history dates back to the 70's, but the real action took place in the 80's/early 90's. In the 80's folks like Andy Redding, Tim Gallagher and Ed Worsman cleaned up several lines and laid the way for the 90's with the likes of Verdugo, DanO, Stackhouse and several others. Prior to regional guidebooks, this area was known as Eagles Peak.

Getting There 

Via I15, exit El Norte Parkway and head east. Follow this for about 4 miles until the park sign appears to one's left. Turn left here on La Honda Drive. Following this one mile up the steep road, where one can get a glimpse of the crags on the right up on the hill. At the park entrance, follow the signs to "Trout Cove" parking lot. Park here and jog across the road to a trail that gives one a visual of the first part of Dixon Lake Crags in about 30 seconds. There is a $5 per vehicle day-use charge on weekends and holidays. Because of the potential problem with poaching, visitors to the rocks are encouraged to observe the closing time of the lake to avoid a potential citation. Entrance is free during the week.

Climbing Season

Weather station 2.1 miles from here

39 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Dixon Lake

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Dixon Lake:
The Flake   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad   The Y Crack Area
Bouldering Face   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad   Eagles Peak Area
The Y Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR   The Y Crack Area
Butthole Express   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   The Y Crack Area
Eagles Peak   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, TR, 35'   Eagles Peak Area
Hairy Airy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 35'   The Y Crack Area
The Shoulder   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   The Roof Area
Overhanging Buckets   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     TR, 17'   Eagles Peak Area
Blood and Roses   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 25'   The Prowe Area
MTV   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 20'   Eagles Peak Area
The Roof   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   The Roof Area
Double D   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   The Roof Area
Chinese Arithmetic (aka Chopped Suey)   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     TR, 18'   Eagles Peak Area
The 5.11 Problem   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     TR   The Y Crack Area
Triple D   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     TR, 1 pitch, 40'   The Roof Area
The Prowe   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     TR, 30'   The Prowe Area
Overhanging Face   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     TR, 1 pitch, 18'   Eagles Peak Area
Overhanging Crack   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     TR, 25'   Eagles Peak Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Dixon Lake

Featured Route For Dixon Lake
Rock Climbing Photo: The Shoulder (5.10a) ascends the rightmost crack i...

The Shoulder 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  California : San Diego County : ... : The Roof Area
This is the crack climb of Dixon Lake. Fingers to fist, this crack climb is truly a classic and a standard for the grade. It is the very clean crack on the right side of The Roof wall. The crux is entering the bulge portion of the crack, halfway up. A right foot is the key before liebacking a move or two to a couple of left traversing moves at the finish. Highly Recommended....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Dixon Lake Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Eagles Peak Area, Dixon Lake
Eagles Peak Area, Dixon Lake
Rock Climbing Photo: The view near campsite 30, Dixon Lake
The view near campsite 30, Dixon Lake
Rock Climbing Photo: The Infamouse Y Crack!!!
The Infamouse Y Crack!!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Leave on time
BETA PHOTO: Leave on time
Rock Climbing Photo: RIP.  I was working the day this fellow fell.
RIP. I was working the day this fellow fell.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dixon Lake Climbing Area
BETA PHOTO: Dixon Lake Climbing Area
Rock Climbing Photo: Trout cove parking area ©
BETA PHOTO: Trout cove parking area ©
Rock Climbing Photo: Dixon Lake
Dixon Lake

Comments on Dixon Lake Add Comment
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By outdooreric
From: Bishop, CA
Dec 27, 2007
The entire park was closed for Christmas Day, 2007. Nobody was allowed in. Bummer.
By Fins129
Nov 14, 2008
Careful about going on Saturday mornings. A few organized groups climb here. Once saw 3 groups of about 10-15 people each climbing here. It didn't leave many climbs left to climb. But still a fun area.
By steemo
Apr 21, 2009
The park fee as of 4/18/09 is now $5.
By Russell
From: Fallbrook, California
Mar 22, 2011
FYI, Dogs are NOT allowed in the park. the wife and i took the dog with us when we went to climb and found we had wasted a trip.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Jan 30, 2012
I was just a kid when I was introduced to this area by a climbing friend. I was obsessed with climbing history books. I would do Y Crack and Hairy A and pretend I was way up high on Half Dome or El Cap. I still remember the first time I did TR'd these routes and how great it felt to do them on lead with gear.
This place will always be special to me and I hope it will remain open and mostly clean.
By Nick Ashforth
Dec 22, 2012
Pretty grungy place. Losers love to hang out and trash the place. If you see any taggers, feel free to show them the trail out, or how hard granite is. Overall, though, pretty food top ropes with a wide range of ratings all in one big clump.

There is a parking fee of $5 per vehicle(12/22/12), but only on holidays and weekends. Dogs are not allowed.
By tom donnelly
From: san diego
Sep 16, 2013
Just to be even more obvious with directions,
the crag is just west of Trout Cove, which is the western end of the lake.
By Robert Karl
From: Pasadena, CA
Jul 24, 2016
Watch out!

I came up to Dixon today for the first time and hiked over to Eagles Peak Area. There was a group of kids milling around on top of the formation. Figured they were harmless so I scrambled around to the edge below that looked over the valley to see if I could identify any routes from MP. Rocks started raining 10 feet from me, from above where the kids were! Since I was alone I skedaddled without looking back. Be careful here!
By Uhliebrah
Oct 19, 2016
Idiot taggers and other losers have continued to trash the place.... I was there last Friday and as we were hiking up to eagles area a spray can flew over our heads. ... Not happy. So when I got topside I asked the punk kids if they are trying to get us all kicked out and the place shut down. They played stupid even though it reaked like paint.. I told them if they keep tagging and treating it like $h** that's what will happen ...

If you come in please grab some trash on your way out ... It sure could use the clean up...

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