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Routes in Ridge 2
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Arete Funicello S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bladerunner S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dixie Rising T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Dry Heave T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Haul Off and Heave T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Heave Ho T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Krack-a-Toe-ah (submitted as Safecracker) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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LIPSTICK S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mouth of the South T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Move Like a Stud T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Slab Left S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Slab Right S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sleeping Digit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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South of the Mouth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sportin' a Woodie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Collins, Fortner,Birch 1989 |
| Page Views: | 630 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Sep 11, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Description
This climb is nearly a variation of the route 'Move Like A Stud.' It is less strenuous, but more devious. Start just right of M.L.A.S. and just left of a huge pine, growing against the cliff. It is apparent that this tree was "trimmed" at some point to facilitate the climbing here but not to any significant amount.
Climb up from the lower right to reach up under a junky-looking flake, which is surprisingly, quite solid. Reaching left under this will produce a tank-god jug. Getting to this point though seems insecure and the first bolt is above. Be confident/solid, get a spotter, or stick-clip the first bolt. Climb to the first bolt, up to the second (don't get sucked left) and then do the crux, which is moving up and left into the crack of "Move Like A Stud" which you join just after its last hard moves. Continue on that climb to a fixed anchor up top.
Climb up from the lower right to reach up under a junky-looking flake, which is surprisingly, quite solid. Reaching left under this will produce a tank-god jug. Getting to this point though seems insecure and the first bolt is above. Be confident/solid, get a spotter, or stick-clip the first bolt. Climb to the first bolt, up to the second (don't get sucked left) and then do the crux, which is moving up and left into the crack of "Move Like A Stud" which you join just after its last hard moves. Continue on that climb to a fixed anchor up top.
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