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Dixie Reality 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA:  Sean Cobourn, Buddy Brasington, and Eddie Medina 2006 FFA: Shannan Milsaps 4-27-08
Page Views: 8,961
Submitted By: Sean Cobourn on Jan 8, 2008

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Shannon Millsaps starting his voyage. Photo by Ed ...

Description 

Face climb up face from the left to crack through roof. Launch out the roof to the end. Turn the corner on the tip and pull up onto face. Hard moves lead to easy scrambling to a tree up top.

Location 

On a ridge coming off right side of Shumont and left of Hanging Chain.
It can sort of be seen from the parking lot in winter if you know where to look. There is no "good" or "easy" approach. But it is well worth a bushwack.

Protection 

takes multiple #3 camalots and other gear.


Photos of Dixie Reality Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ed Williams nearing the crux photo by Shannan Mill...
Ed Williams nearing the crux photo by Shannan Mill...
Rock Climbing Photo: first attempt on day of discovery in 1980s.  That ...
first attempt on day of discovery in 1980s. That ...

Comments on Dixie Reality Add Comment
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By Sean Cobourn
From: Gramling, SC
Jan 8, 2008

I blatantly aided the thing. Ed and Shannon (see photos) are making great strides towards freeing it.
By david Adkins
Feb 20, 2008

I'm sorry, and I'm sure that I'll get an ear-full but what part of that roof is 5.10?
By Jacob Neathawk
From: Nederland, CO
Mar 18, 2008

has this route been freed yet? looks amazing
By Sean Cobourn
From: Gramling, SC
Apr 9, 2008

David- the approach up to the roof is 5.10 and most of moves out the roof itself are not that hard; individually. The jams are pretty good, the pro is bomber and the fall is clean. Ed predicts it will be "only" 11+. Probably will go soon. We just haven't been back lately.
By Sean Cobourn
From: Gramling, SC
Apr 27, 2008

Ed Williams, Shannon Millsaps and I went in there today in pretty iffy weather. In one of the finest displays of climbing I have ever witnessed, Shannon fired the coveted FFA on his first try since last year. Let's say it is 5.12.
By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 3, 2009

It's really great that FAs like this can still be found these days. Great work. You have truly created a "Back in the day" hardman story to tell future generations of climbers.
By Sam Stephens
Feb 21, 2011

Any beta on finding this thing? Didn't notice it on my way to hanging chain yesterday.
By Russ Keane
4 days ago

I believe this is the climb that made the cover of Mike/Sean's Rumbling Bald guide book!
By Sean Cobourn
From: Gramling, SC
11 hours ago

you are correct Russ!
By Sean Cobourn
From: Gramling, SC
11 hours ago

Between Shumont Mountain and Hanging Chain area. Look around and you may stumble across it.
I always approached via Eagle Rock on the North Side. I had a deal with previous owners since we were working together to help build the park. Being able to drive certainly made approach easier, but it is a lovely hike. At gate at end of Shumont Mt. Church Road, hike up the 4WD road. Be sure to stop at Eagle Rock on the left for stunning views of the north side of the bald which has hundreds of established pitches, currently closed by park management. Keep hiking uphill towards the summit of Shumont. Road forks left and then goes downhill. There is a short slick rock section. At bottom of this section look for a road cutting back hard right. Take this turn. Follow it downhill. You are now on southside of ridge. See photo on area page. At end of road there is a small creek. A faint trail continues a short distance to a ridgecrest. Cut down the ridge until it is easier to drop into the broad drainage to the right below Shumont. Cross the drainage and crest the next ridge. At the ridgecrest turn left and go down towards lake until your jaw drops when you see the giant roof. Climb it then maybe blaze a trail to Hanging Chain and perhaps an easier future approach.

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