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Division Wall
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YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Boone Speed, Bill Boyle
Page Views: 4,023
Submitted By: Neal Carroll on Oct 12, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (79)
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Natasha before the crux. Photo by Colin MacNeil.

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


Rated 5.11d in the book, this route has suffered from the continuous demise of a "key" hold in the crux roof section, and is now, in my opinion, pretty solid 12a....especially for the area. Maybe I just don't climb it very often so it always feels hard.

Big jugs lead to a roof, which you climb around on the left side of the bolt, and the pump really just builds after that as you climb on slopey pockets and edges to the chains. Somewhat of a testpiece for the lower grades.


7 bolts and chains.


Located on the west-facing wall of this crag, Division is one route right of Struggling Man (5.12a). and just left of a prominent corner that contains the upper section of Les is More (5.10a) route.

The initial four bolts trend up and right.

Photos of Division Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Watch those feet! (Crux Move)
Watch those feet! (Crux Move)
Rock Climbing Photo: Cali Brown on Division.
Cali Brown on Division.
Rock Climbing Photo: V3 Crux
V3 Crux

Comments on Division Add Comment
Show which comments
By d-know
From: electric lady land
Jan 28, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I think a hold broke off just above the roof. May be a touch harder than 11d now.
Apr 27, 2007
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Ratings are always subjective. However, yesterday I climbed both Isatoner Moaner (rated 12a/b) and Division. In my opinion Isatoner Moaner was significantly harder than Division. In fact, after I was roasted from Isatoner Moaner, I still had enough juice to climb Division twice.
By KipHenrie
From: Farmington, utah
Nov 5, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This is a climb thats in your face the whole way. big reachy jugs on an overhanging wall makes you want to go as fast as possible. the movement is classic AF style. The crux is at the roof which is way rewarding. i tried it the hard way then found an easier way after 3 goes. after that roof its still balancy and hard when you are pumped. the end also has an easier and a harder way. it took me a while to figure it out. its a thinker. well protected. solid 12a in my book.
By Bad Sock Puppet
Sep 4, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Division is such a satisfying climb! Start on easy big jugs up to a small roof. The crux would either be pulling the roof or the next few moves right afterward. Beautiful fall zone. As always in AF, polished feet through the crux so you're always about to pop. A hard climb, but not .12a just a tricky .11d
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jan 23, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

I had to climb fast through the lower section. I read about the roof being tough prior to trying, but had no problem with it. Decent holds all the way, kind of a devious sequence. So fun.
By James Yates
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 7, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

+1 the 11e+ comment.

Not as hard as other 12a's in the canyon but harder than most 11ds. This climb would be 12a at many other climbing destinations across the US.
By CHopwood
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 6, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Not sure about 5.12. If you make bigger moves, you never have to touch a bad hold, except for the crux. I didn't use the glued on "crux" hold and didn't feel like it was harder without it. Fun route but really just a one move wonder.
By Tyler Needham
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 14, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

If Liquid Oxygen is a benchmark 12a, this climb is 12a. Just as difficult.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Jun 14, 2017

In my honest opinion this route is standard 11d and Liquid O with the best beta is 11c...I feel if you use these for "standard calibration 12a" you will be off.

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