REI Community
Divas and Witches Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Divas And Witches T 
Sensitive Man T 

Divas And Witches 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b C0

Type:  Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b C0 [details]
FA: James and Franziska Garrett, September 2006
New Route: Yes
Season: Anytime it is dry
Page Views: 1,000
Submitted By: James Garrett on Jun 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
A cold Franziska arrives on top.

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


The crux may very well be on the first pitch which is a slab interrupted by a steep blankish face section, which I recall was passed with a touch of AO.
This has since been freed via a variation by Tyler Phillips and Luke Douglas.
I enter this climb almost a year after the fact as I began to forget the details and we doubted this enjoyable route would otherwise get repeated.


East Facing Wall (left side and low down as one hikes up the gully). A low angle sub gully/branch on the left will lead to a south facing slab and an ovious bolt at the beginning of the route. This is probably one of the first routes on the left (longer ones) one will encounter.


5 pitches drilled on lead with numerous bolts per pitch. Two-bolt belays after each pitch. A supplemental small additional trad rack may be useful, but the route is quite well protected with bolts. Rappel the route.

Photos of Divas And Witches Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A view of the slab where Divas And Witches can be ...
A view of the slab where Divas And Witches can be ...

Comments on Divas And Witches Add Comment
Show which comments
By Luke Douglas
Oct 12, 2008

I liked this climb and had fun on it. I thought the first two pitches were the most enjoyable.
By Ben Folsom
Jul 26, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C0

Maura and I climbed this yesterday. Didn't worry about trying to free it. Agreed that the first two pitches are the most enjoyable. (we combined the first two into one pitch with a 70m rope.) The last two pitches have sections of good climbing, but the dirt gully on pitch 3 isn't too pleasant. There is some great climbing on juggy chickenheads on pitch 4. Couldn't find a 5th pitch either, and couldn't see any rock worth climbing above the top of pitch 4. We easily rapped the route with a 70m rope, and a 60 should work fine.
Nice job finding some pretty good climbing on this chossy looking wall James.
By JimG
Jul 25, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C0

Nice route in a pretty, secluded setting. Doesn't look like much from the ground, but it links up some good sections of climbing with a little bit of easy vegetated and dirty rock. I thought pitch 4 was the best. Like Ben, I couldn't make out a 5th pitch, and we looked pretty hard. James, are you sure this has a fifth pitch? Pitch 4 ends at 3 bolts on an exposed little prow of rock, and above that it is lower angle, dirty and brushy. Nice bolted belay/rap stances make for a quick trip up and down with a single 70m. I will definitely do this one again.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About