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Szívek Fala
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Diótörö 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Submitted By: Pal Pocsi on Jun 9, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Diótörő at Bajót. If you look closely, yo...

Description 

Diótörő has some good face climbing up to a good sized bulge. Good opportunity for a fun undercling and some good jugs to clear the overhang. After that, the difficulty mellows out. Easy climbing and scrambling (little runout) will take you to the top.

Making the first clip is pretty easy but to get the second one, I think you pretty much need to move out a bit right or left to keep it at the grade. Getting above the second clip and under the bulge is probably the most fun section. The crux is getting up over the bulge.

The guidebook lists this route as VI- (UIAA rating), which corresponds roughly to a 5.8+ in the Yosemite grading system.

Location 

Right hand side of Szívek Fala. Look for a good sized bulge about 2/3 of the way up. The route heads up to the bulge and then passes the bulge on the left hand side.

Protection 

Pins and bolts to the anchors up top. Rappel down.


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