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Dislocation Overhang 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Steve Mabley
Page Views: 2,604
Submitted By: nodin on Jul 15, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Victorious devil horns.

Access Restriction: Parking MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Located on the Tunnel Bluff, start up toward the obvious roof above a big ledge (Bionic Finger Crack is to the left). Straight forward climbing to the ledge with tons of protection (small to medium cams and nuts). The Crux is at the roof and requires a layback on some slick rock. Commiting move but easy to protect with a #2 Camalot and a long sling. After pulling the overhang gain the crack and enjoy the easy jamming to the top.
Fun little climb with lots of protection for beginning leaders.

Location 

The only obvious overhang on the Tunnel Bluff...

Protection 

Small to medium cams and a set of nuts. Medium cams for anchor at top.


Photos of Dislocation Overhang Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dislocation Overhang
BETA PHOTO: Dislocation Overhang
Rock Climbing Photo: Finding a placement after the crux.
Finding a placement after the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Joel Saice looking strong on his first trad lead!
Joel Saice looking strong on his first trad lead!
Rock Climbing Photo: Cora leading up past the big ledge.
Cora leading up past the big ledge.
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux of Dislocation Overhang
The crux of Dislocation Overhang
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan working his way up the easy stretch of Disloc...
Ryan working his way up the easy stretch of Disloc...

Comments on Dislocation Overhang Add Comment
Show which comments
By Glenn Burns
From: St. Paul, MN
May 7, 2007

sweet climb.

lowe balls makes for a good omni directional piece below the overhang.
By Dan Roberts
From: Eastern Iowa
Jul 17, 2008

The hardest looking overhang that is easy to pull. Great for photo opps.
By Jace Martinetto
Apr 28, 2017

Great climb for beginners to feel not like beginners! I bring lots of new climbers here and they love being "upside down". Its very easy to talk a new climber through this route and let them enjoy the overhang! If you've never climbed here I would highly recommend this route!

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