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Disinclination S 
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Disinclination 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Bonnie Von Grebe, 2001
Page Views: 4,580
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Aug 9, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (124)
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Deanna DeMarco making the final thin moves to the ...

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  • Description 

    Start in a short right-facing corner, just uphill from Ripcord. This is the same start as for Incline Club (aka Inclination).

    Climb the corner past 2 bolts to the huge slab above. Angle left and follow bolts up the slab left of Midway crack.

    Rossiter calls this 5.8, but it seemed easier.

    Protection 

    8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


    Photos of Disinclination Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The right-facing corner at the start of Disinclina...
    BETA PHOTO: The right-facing corner at the start of Disinclina...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nickie Kelly near the top of the route.  The last ...
    Nickie Kelly near the top of the route. The last ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Routes on the Avalon slab. Incline Club and Disinc...
    BETA PHOTO: Routes on the Avalon slab. Incline Club and Disinc...

    Comments on Disinclination Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Nov 2, 2003
    rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

    On a 35 degree and snowing day, this felt easier than East Slab on the Dome, so I'm calling this 5.5. It's a good route for the grade, but no where near 5.8 as it was rated by Rossiter.
    By William McGehee
    From: Choctaw, OK
    Jun 25, 2005

    Much more fun than Midway. Clean climbing on a well-bolted slab and you can even toprope it from the rings at the base of the pillar Rossiter describes in his BC guide. Gives you a chance to safely play around on Ripcord as well (minus the rope-stretch)! Good technical moves that force-teach you to learn slab-climbing on granite. Two stars because the start is a little contrived and the route traverses a good bit from start to finish. Rope-drag over the rock at the start can be a pain.~Wm
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 14, 2007
    rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

    A fun climb with good rock and well-protected. In the scale of this rock and this canyon, I think it is an exemplary climb of quality at the low difficulty range. Would never get a 5.7 in the Flatirons, but might in a more 'modern' scale.
    By kevinnlong
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 13, 2008

    This climb can be lead on trad and makes for excellent practice protecting thin slabs with potential runouts (depending on how good your gear placement technique is).

    It certainly increased my interest in the route.
    By Ben Cassedy
    From: Denver, CO
    Sep 18, 2010
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    You're kind of all over this big rock face. Good position and exposure - more fun than you would think.
    By James Hulett
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Jul 4, 2012
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

    Didn't feel like 5.7.

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