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Disfigured Oedipus S 
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Disfigured Oedipus 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Link: "a woman years and years ago", OG Routes: EFR/Eddie Mofardin 2001
Season: Summer
Page Views: 544
Submitted By: Alex McIntyre on Sep 7, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Starting on Disfigured Foreigner, climb through the crux clipping the first four chain draws. Once over the first roof, move left and finish on the crux of Oedipus Complex. Dreamed up by John Hinrichsen, this actually contains most of the hard climbing on both routes and is a rather direct, obvious line. Worthwhile if you're looking for something short but challenging or if you've exhausted the other routes on the wall.

Location 

Starts on Disfigured Foreigner and moves left into Oedipus. Starts off of the end of the cable.

Protection 

6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Need one draw for the first bolt on Disfigured.


Comments on Disfigured Oedipus Add Comment
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By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 8, 2014

On Mountain Project, which essentially has infinite space, I personally see no issue with posting variations. Give climbers and users options and let them decide their worth.

That said not all variations are created equal and there is a spectrum of opinions on what makes a notable variation. I would contend that a significantly harder (for the crag or region) or more aesthetically pleasing line is worth noting. There are few such lines in my opinion.

The Orifice Wall is regionally unique in that it can be climbed during monsoon storms and is used for training. Perhaps the standards should be lower at a wall where folks are bored and no other options exist?

From an organizational / administrator standpoint I worry that variations might cause confusion among climbers unfamiliar with the crag. Perhaps we could prefix or append "[Var]" or "(Link-up)" to their names?

It is interesting to ponder. How do other areas handle variations? Would it be constructive to have a forum discussion? Should I as an administrator delete, rename, or simply leave such routes?
By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 8, 2014

By rename I meant prefixing or appending something like "[Var]". I was not suggesting that the route's given name be altered.
By Luke Bertelsen
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 9, 2014

I absolutely disagree that link-ups and variations should be listed in the routes comments instead of as a new route if a MP user wants to add it as another entry. I also believe that an administrator stepping in to delete routes in these instances is over stepping in a big way.

I would hate to see that happen just because some folks think a link-up or variation is a less valid ascent. It's is totally fine to have that view, but that doesn't mean it should be pushed on to the climbing community.

It's also totally strange to me that this is a big deal at all. If you have climbed at any of the popular climbing areas in the Western U.S. you are probably familiar with the concept of a link-up.

I think that you guys are in search of a problem for a solution.


By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 9, 2014

Thanks for the feedback, Luke. Others are welcome to chime in. We can always delete comments if we deem them no longer relevant. How does the following local policy sound?

  • Variations are welcome to be posted. In general if the submitter deems the route worthy, then it will stay. Garbage, troll, or joke submissions shall be deleted regardless of whether or not they are variations.
  • Variations will be denoted by appending [Var] to the route name. I believe this will assist users in orienting themselves especially on the mobile app.

As with all decisions I welcome discussion and am willing to reconsider.

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