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Disco Lizard 

A1

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Aid, 1 pitch, 40'
Original: A1 [details]
FA: Erik Kelly
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,132
Submitted By: ErikK on May 10, 2009

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the line follows features just right of the thin, ...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb is just up the gully from Disco Captain on the same side. It's on a gold shield of rock where the black streaks end.
Start on a shield of rock hanging just above the gully and climb a series of cracks and flaps to the top. There is one lead bolt just before the last flap.
It's short and bouldery with tricky pro.
I equipped and cleaned this route but it still awaits a FFA

Protection 

Micro cams through Finger size cams and wires.
There is a two bolt anchor on top.


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By Paul Robertson
Jun 6, 2017

Freed this thing back in March (2017) at 5.13a. Bouldery start with minimal gear and thought-provoking movement. It was difficult to place gear at the crux. The placement is blind on a 0.1" X4 camalot. If the cam is not engaged in a very precise location, it will fail under the force of a fall. A ground fall would send one tumbling down a steep slap into some trees. Probably deserves an "R" rating. Maybe not much of an aid line, but pretty damn fun as a free line.
my placements from bottom to top:
blue TCU (placed from stance on slab)
0.1" X4
yellow/orange off-set mastercam
bolt (good condition from FA)
Silver (hand-sized) tricam

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