REI Community
Waterfront, The
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acapulco Arete S 
Baja Breakdown T 
Barefoot in Barbados S,TR 
Certain Death T 
Chickenhead Holiday T 
Cold Duck T 
Comfort Zone S 
Disco Captain T,S 
Disco Chicken S,TR 
Disco Duck T 
Disco Lizard T,S 
Flirtin' Death T,S 
Flown the Coop S 
Gritman's Traverse T 
Head On T 
Jaws of Flesh T 
Just Hanging Out T 
Losing My Religion  T 
Mantels to Mazatlan S 
On the Waterfront T 
Seams Like the Seashore T 
Slice of Bread T 
Thin Slab S 
Tijuana Donkey Show T,TR 
Unknown T 
Unknown Slab S,TR 
Waterfront Cave T 

Disco Lizard 


Type:  Trad, Sport, Aid, 1 pitch, 40'
Original: A1 [details]
FA: Erik Kelly
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,132
Submitted By: ErikK on May 10, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
the line follows features just right of the thin, ...

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


This climb is just up the gully from Disco Captain on the same side. It's on a gold shield of rock where the black streaks end.
Start on a shield of rock hanging just above the gully and climb a series of cracks and flaps to the top. There is one lead bolt just before the last flap.
It's short and bouldery with tricky pro.
I equipped and cleaned this route but it still awaits a FFA


Micro cams through Finger size cams and wires.
There is a two bolt anchor on top.

Comments on Disco Lizard Add Comment
Show which comments
By Paul Robertson
Jun 6, 2017

Freed this thing back in March (2017) at 5.13a. Bouldery start with minimal gear and thought-provoking movement. It was difficult to place gear at the crux. The placement is blind on a 0.1" X4 camalot. If the cam is not engaged in a very precise location, it will fail under the force of a fall. A ground fall would send one tumbling down a steep slap into some trees. Probably deserves an "R" rating. Maybe not much of an aid line, but pretty damn fun as a free line.
my placements from bottom to top:
blue TCU (placed from stance on slab)
0.1" X4
yellow/orange off-set mastercam
bolt (good condition from FA)
Silver (hand-sized) tricam

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About