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Waterfront, The
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acapulco Arete S 
Baja Breakdown T 
Barefoot in Barbados S,TR 
Certain Death T 
Chickenhead Holiday T 
Cold Duck T 
Comfort Zone S 
Disco Captain T,S 
Disco Chicken S,TR 
Disco Duck T 
Disco Lizard T,S 
Flirtin' Death T,S 
Flown the Coop S 
Gritman's Traverse T 
Head On T 
Jaws of Flesh T 
Just Hanging Out T 
Losing My Religion  T 
Mantels to Mazatlan S 
On the Waterfront T 
Seams Like the Seashore T 
Slice of Bread T 
Thin Slab S 
Tijuana Donkey Show T,TR 
Unknown T 
Unknown Slab S,TR 
Waterfront Cave T 

Disco Chicken 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: Rotert, McMillan 1982
Page Views: 267
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Mar 12, 2005

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Eyeing the upward march.

Description 

As you head west underneath the Waterfront, you will come to an obvious gully with black streaked rock, and a roof above a ledge. In this gully on the left wall are 3 routes. This is the left bolted line. It starts in a groove system with a bit of crack work, and then it enters a ladder of chickenheads. Good moves, excellent balance required. Consistently hard climbing forces you to rest stances which luckily can be had. The line is funky, but who said chickenheads had to be in a straight line.

Protection 

3 draws for the climb and there are anchors up top. You may be able to sling a chicken head down low. If you finish left you may want a small selection of medium to small pieces.


Photos of Disco Chicken Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun sequence, one right after the other.
Fun sequence, one right after the other.
Rock Climbing Photo: Disco Chicken  Photo- Maura H.
Disco Chicken Photo- Maura H.

Comments on Disco Chicken Add Comment
Show which comments
By grk10vq
Administrator
Sep 15, 2008

1. mantle, mantle, mantle, then mantle your way to the top.
2. bring a #2 camalot if you want to protect the direct exit.
3. carry your gonads home in a wheel barrel.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Sep 16, 2011

Testy! Your first pro is a slung chickenhead about 15 feet up after climbing some semi-flakey rock, then its spaced chickenheads for another 3 bolts. Some of them are really far apart. I found myself mantle-dynoing. One final chickenhead after the 3rd bolt provides pro before the final bulge pull, but this thing is still R and hard! Best to TR it before leading.
By Danie White
From: SLC, UT
Jun 24, 2015
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R

Felt harder than 11a to me, but I'm short. TR burn.
By Brent Barghahn
From: SLC, UT
Jul 15, 2016
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13

A thin hands cam can protect the initial moves before slinging the first positive chicken head, this gives adequate pro until after the last bolt. Bailing left at this point gives pro on Disco Duck, but the true direct finish would take some sort of lassoing the top positive chicken head from below with the bolt 5ft below your feet. Hard, but the lead is reasonably safe for an onsight attempt.