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YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Hank Caylor and Paul Glover, 1987
Page Views: 6,872
Submitted By: Ted Lanzano on Mar 6, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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  • Description 

    This is classic Flatirons rock climbing. Located on the South Face of the Box, Discipline is one of the most beautiful sport climbs I have ever seen. It also offers some of the best technical face climbing in the Flatirons.

    Start by climbing a thin slab with sharp pockets and crimps to a large hole where you can place an optional #3 or 4 cam (see comments below). Continue through an awkward traverse and then the route becomes slightly overhung and also slightly pumpy. You can rest on several jugs around the 5th bolt, but watch as some of these appeared loose. To clip the chains, you'll need to pull a classic top-out onto the upper slab by pulling on some semi-desperate slopers and small crimps. You may want to stick clip the first bolt, but this is not entirely necessary.

    If you're up for more face climbing, try Cornucopia to the left. This is a very thin and desperate Dale Goddard route set in the 1980s.

    To get to Discipline, park at NCAR and ascend the Mallory Cave trail towards Dinosaur Mountain. Instead of going left up towards Power Bulge, go right (after Der Zerkle) and continue up a moderate incline for about 10 minutes (good cardio warm-up). You'll see the Box on your right.


    6 bolts of climbing to a 2 bolt anchor. A # 3 cam is useful after the 2nd bolt.

    Per Mark Rolofson: a few stoppers (#6-8) before the last bolt can be useful.

    Photos of Discipline Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: The obligatory photo.
    The obligatory photo.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Discipline.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tarry seeking discipline.
    Tarry seeking discipline.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Moving up to the 4th bolt. Crux monodoigt, definit...
    Moving up to the 4th bolt. Crux monodoigt, definit...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Balancey moves before an intimidating mantel.
    Balancey moves before an intimidating mantel.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Believing is seeing. "There are holds, there ...
    Believing is seeing. "There are holds, there ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Local Curt MacNeill climbing on a beautiful winter...
    Local Curt MacNeill climbing on a beautiful winter...
    Rock Climbing Photo: On the thin crux of Discipline.
    On the thin crux of Discipline.

    Comments on Discipline Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Apr 27, 2004

    I agree, a pretty climb. There are sticks at the base for stick-clipping the first bolt. it's thin up to it, but do-able. The cam is also not critical. the moves up to the anchors are stout, and fun.

    Also note the drilled pipe on the square edge of the large boulder flat behind the belayer. crazy kids...
    By Jim Redo
    Feb 5, 2005

    #3 Camalot.
    By Ted Lanzano
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 20, 2008

    The old ring bolts and anchors have been replaced with half inch, stainless bolts. Still need to patch and camo the old bolt holes, and replace old hardware on Cornucopia. Thanks to ARI, OSMP, Matt, Stan and Greg.
    By Alex Shainman
    Dec 9, 2010

    A #3 anything totally does not fit in that slot! I did this today after maybe 15 years and it's definitely a #4 Friend or Camalot! It is easy though....

    Thanks for replacing those bolts, guys!!!
    By adam brink
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 14, 2011
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    The #3 is so flared out that it only might hold. A #4 would be bomber. Stellar climb with an amazing position.
    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 30, 2011

    Great route!
    By Mark Rolofson
    Mar 14, 2013
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    I climbed this route a few times in 1989 & 1990 & revisited it in 2011. It is great route with some thin, fingery climbing past the first 2 bolts. I would have never have considered placing a large cam in the hole between 2nd & 3rd bolts. It easy & juggy here. However, I do recommend bringing a few stoppers (#6-8) to place in a horzontal crack before the last bolt. I have always placed a couple nuts here, since you're above the 5th bolt before making a tricky move to get to the last bolt in the bulge.
    By Mr. Stevens
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jan 18, 2015

    A new #4 Camalot fits perfectly after the 2nd bolt, and there's a very obvious, chalked mail-slot/crack to the right between the 5th & 6th bolts that takes a perfect #7 (yellow) DMM alloy offset nut. Put a long sling on it though. That's the only gear you'd need if you're supplementing the bolts. The nut is not totally necessary, but I wouldn't want to go up this without a #4. Amazing climbing; very restful - about 3 no-hands rests, although it's quite pumpy on the calves. Felt easier than Plan B in BoCan, but that's just how it goes sometimes....
    By climberboy228 Romano
    Jun 20, 2015

    Getting to the Box was a super long hike. This route is extremely picturesque...the rock color and the big views are hard to beat anywhere. It was totally in the sun, but the belay has a shady cave. You definitely need a stick clip for the first bolt. There are SIX bolts...and I still placed two cams...a #4 cam in a slot between bolts 2 and 3...and a small tricam between bolts 4 and 5 in a flake. The first 20 feet are extremely thin. Although in the sun, the friction was still great...the issue is simply super small crimps, pebbles, a couple slopey pockets, and even a mono pocket. Above 20 feet the route is varied and super cool...truly fantastic.
    By Steve Annecone
    From: boulder
    Oct 18, 2015

    Excellent climb, definitely nice, classic movement in a beautiful setting! Very techy and intricate climbing on sharp holds, with a crux move pulling kinda hard on a monodoigt with a sharp edge. Best to have well-conditioned fingertip skin and coolish temps.

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