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Disaster Master 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Paul Humphrey
Page Views: 413
Submitted By: Lurker on Feb 14, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Unknown climber near the end of Disaster Master (s...

Description 

Vertical to overhanging to slighty slabby, and long! Can cut left about two-thirds of the way up, after the crux bulge, to anchors on a mid-.13 project. Thuggy and continuous climbing with devious holds through the bulge.

Location 

Middle bolted route on the Main Wall, just right of the large "All Marked Up" dihedral.

Protection 

21 bolts to top anchors. 70m rope might(??) get you off.

16 bolts to lower anchors, 60m rope works.


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By Lurker
Administrator
From: Westwood
Feb 14, 2014

Haven't been on the upper part, sounds like thin and slightly less-than-vertical crimping.
By Evan Wisheropp
4 days ago

The anchors are only a few feet below the lip of the cliff. You can just coil a second rope on top when you're hiking in and dangle an end down towards the anchor, that way you can tie the two ropes and rap without having to drag up two ropes.

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