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Disappearing Devil
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Disappearing Person 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 230'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Andrew Parnas, Jojo Matson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 394
Submitted By: aparnas on Aug 22, 2016

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Pitch 1 (5.9, 120 ft) Scramble up to a small ledge to access the obvious squeeze chimney crack. Inside the squeeze chimney is a handcrack. Climb the handcrack, negotiate your way past a few large (solid) chockstones, and tunnel deeper through the chimney until you arrive at a large hidden ledge behind the cliff face.

Pitch 2 (5.11a, 110 ft) Walk left from the belay to the obvious #4 crack that continues up the portion of the pillar that is detached from the main rim cliff. Climb the crack to where the rock becomes soft and loose. Continue up past this loose band of rock to more solid climbing in a corner where two large cracks converge to create some fantastic geometry. Optional belay here to reduce rope drag. Climb the corner where the two cracks come together, either by stemming or using the offwidth crack in back. Above this, the rock becomes loose and delicate again, so dance cautiously up the next 30 feet to the summit of the pillar.


Same directions for getting to Disappearing Devil. Disappearing Person is on the main cliff face almost directly across the valley from the Disappearing Devil tower.


Single rack up to BD# 0.75. Double or triple rack of BD# 1 - 4. Single or double rack of BD# 5-6. Set of large nuts for chockstones on first pitch.

70 meter rope absolutely necessary for rappels!!! Two ropes recommended. One 70 meter rope (With rope stretch!!) just barely reaches the bottoms of both pitches. Tie knots in the ends of your rope!!

Photos of Disappearing Person Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Second belay station
Second belay station
Rock Climbing Photo: First pitch squeeze chimney
First pitch squeeze chimney
Rock Climbing Photo: Cave for the second belay.
Cave for the second belay.
Rock Climbing Photo: Disappearing Person as you approach from the north...
BETA PHOTO: Disappearing Person as you approach from the north...

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