Disappearing Devil Rock Climbing
Disappearing Devil from the trailhead.
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
The Disappearing Devil tower is located about one-quarter mile north (right) of the Disappearing Angel. It is on the same band of excellent Wingate. It is not as big as Disappearing Angel, and less visible. The best place to see it is from the parking lot at the base of the Hidden Valley Trail, where it is obvious as the big blocky tower just up and left from the initial switchbacks of the Hidden Valley Trail. It leans, so has an overhanging east face, and shorter less-steep west side.
Drive south out of town to Angel Rock Road. Take a right here, and another right at the T-junction, and park at the end of the road in the parking lot for Hidden Valley Trail. From here, you could slog straight up the very steep talus. Yuck. Instead, hike the switchbacks to the first big flat meadow. Continue a couple minutes on the trail, and locate a faint trail heading up and left (small cairn?) up a talus slope to a higher hidden valley. You will now be slightly above the tower, and a quarter-mile north of it. Hike the hidden valley southwards to the tower, which will be on your left. This approach is longer, but kinder to both oneself and the vegetation.
Climbing Season For the Moab Area area.
Weather station 2.8 miles from here
5 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Disappearing Devil
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Disappearing Devil:
Featured Route For Disappearing Devil
Sideways Sandworm 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
: Moab Area
: ... : Disappearing Devil
Pitch 1: Worm your way up the squeeze chimney in the corner, using ledgy holds when they are available. There is very little pro, but the climbing is secure and simple. Pop out onto a ledge and build a belay to bring your partner up. (5.8, 30ft)Pitch 2: To the right of the obvious offwidth, squeeze into a narrow corridor between the wall and a large strangely shaped flake that tapers fantastically to a point at its top. Climb the wide hands crack hidden at the back of this corridor until you...[more] Browse More Classics in Utah
Approaching the tower from the north.
BETA PHOTO: Disappearing Devil from the south. Devil May Care ...