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YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Joe Strutt, Roy Kligfield, Jack Hunt 1973
Page Views: 2,464
Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Oct 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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first crux


Dis-Mantel is a short but sweet climb up the center of the "Dis-Mantel" block which sits to the left of the Raunchy area.

The "gear shift" knob broke off the 5.9 version of this route some time ago, and Dick Williams says the route is now 10b. For someone tall like myself, it doesn't make much difference, and the upper ceiling is still the crux.

To the left of Dis-Mantel is Dat-Mantel, 5.10, and to the right, starting around the corner is Kernmantle 5.8. I always wanted to add another route and call it Mickey Mantle, but couldn't squeeze in another line.

Start near the middle of the face and pass a bulge on its left side (new crux?). Angle right and over a tricky ceiling (old crux). A little higher get a directional for your second and traverse straight right to a tree from which you can belay or lower.


The Dis-Mantel block sits between Bitchy Virgin and Raunchy. Unnamed climbs are on the left side this block.


Single set of cams and a few nuts. Long slings.

Photos of Dis-Mantel Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Beginning the second crux - Rich Goldstone.
Beginning the second crux - Rich Goldstone.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the roof - Rich Goldstone.
Pulling the roof - Rich Goldstone.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rich Goldstone on the Mantle block, between the fi...
Rich Goldstone on the Mantle block, between the fi...

Comments on Dis-Mantel Add Comment
Show which comments
By monk
Nov 5, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I was conflicted about gear on the last roof. I got a good cam at the lip of the roof but I'm unsure about the rock quality. I warned my belayer to put on a helmet in case I fell and broke the rock.

Does anyone know what I'm talking about? Was I stupid to place the pro there?

BTW, I think Ivan is right that the route is height dependent. I'm 5'8" and I can *just* reach the good hold on the first roof. If I were any shorter I think it would be much harder.
By brian ivins
Mar 12, 2009

Uhmmmm. 5.9+? Is this in the parallel universe where Gunks 5.9 + (=) 5.10? I got up to that first mantle and got shut down, not wanting to chance my gf catching me (and this was after three weeks climbing in Eldo and the Valley!)

Good gear though. Yellow alien below the first mantle if I remember right. Definitely one to try again when I feel stronger.
By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Jun 23, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

It is a 5.10 in both Williams and Swain which I found to be about right and the first bulge is harder than the second "roof" for short people which is rated at 5.8 in Swain. Not that the difference between 5.9 and 5.10 is significant but I think that people who are substantially taller or shorter than average who rate climbs skew the ratings, particularly at the Gunks where many climbs are reach dependent.
5.10a for 5'9" or taller
5.10c? for under 5'9"
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Feb 1, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

First crux took me several falls to figure out (I'm 5'5"), the second roof is probably 5.8ish but a grunt.
By kenr
Aug 4, 2013

As Monk suggests, if shorter than 5ft8in w normal reach the lower crux is much harder - (perhaps more than 10b?). Not just finger strength, but a sort of awkward trick -- took me a lot of tries to work it out even after I saw it demonstrated.
By Jon Po
From: Mahwah, NJ
Apr 14, 2015
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Onsighting this would be a nice prize! Thought this one was pretty tough for the grade. The first roof seemed maybe 2 grades easier than the second to me. Be sure that your piece over the second roof is very solid.. Gear placement is kind of strenuous but critical and worth taking your time for. If you don't get it right you'll probably come careening past the first roof, catch you're legs on the first roof, flip over and hit your back/head on the rock like I did :/ Wear a helmet for this one!
Apr 15, 2015

Ouch, Jon, that sounds pretty close to the dirt.

I'm short: 5'6" with a -2" apespan. The first roof has always shut me down on toprope. I think I climbed it once or twice when I was a 5.9 leader, but maybe not even then.

Speaking of toprope, if you think your second will flail like me, be sure to use the horizontal under the 2nd roof to arrange the rope such that it is over the first roof (not to the right of the first roof).
By Gunkiemike
Sep 1, 2015

The grey Dick describes a second pitch at 5.7 PG. It's easily reached from the easier climbs (i.e. easier than 5.10) on either side of the big Mantle block. It goes up what looks to be an attractive piece of rock. The moves approaching the "first crux" overhang are fairly dirty however, and that's followed by a 5.5ish runout that is squarely in the R category IMO (DW calls it PG). Nice climbing however, so if you're looking for something to do after exhausting the Raunchy/Wild Horses lines, give it a look.

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