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Pacific Ocean Cliff
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5.10b Toprope TR 
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Dirty Thoughts T,TR 
Dizzy Dial S 
Native Rights T 
Superstitious S 
Whale Nation S 

Dirty Thoughts 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Season: summer- stays wet
Page Views: 90
Submitted By: Nick Black on Aug 21, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Steep and surprisingly splitter

Description 

Steep, left leaning, tips and fingercrack. Starts with funky laybacking up a sloping ramp to reach the base of the crack, followed by long lockoffs between solid locks with bad feet, very technical. To lead this route you can either build an anchor about 45ft up where the crack becomes filled with plants(rap off a tree from the top to clean, or to set a TR) or head right over a face climbing bulge(10+ish) protected by micro gear, and scramble up dirty ledges to the top, R/X rated. I'd give this 4 stars for the moves and 2 stars for rock quality, one of the few routes on the coast with full on crack climbing! Difficulty is very height and finger size dependent, let me know what you think if you get on it!

Location 

Around the arete from dizzy dial.

Protection 

BD .2-1, doubles or triples in .3-.5. place the gear as deep as you can, and sew this thing up, coastal rock is very temperamental. you'll need two ropes and and a few .75-2 pieces for TR.


Photos of Dirty Thoughts Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: another shot of the crux finger section
another shot of the crux finger section

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