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Pacific Ocean Cliff
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5.10b Toprope TR 
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California Coastline (Free) TR 
Dirty Thoughts T,TR 
Dizzy Dial S 
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Superstitious S 
Whale Nation S 

Dirty Thoughts 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
New Route: Yes
Season: summer- stays wet
Page Views: 127
Submitted By: Nick Black on Aug 21, 2016

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Steep and surprisingly splitter

Description 

Steep, left leaning, tips and fingercrack. The name came from the amount of dirt that filled this awesome route, which took hours of scrubbing to clean! Be 11+ for the average sized fingers, for my slender fingers it a bit rattly and .12-. Starts with super technical, funky laybacking up a sloping ramp to reach the base of the crack, followed by long lockoffs between solid locks with bad feet. one of the few routes on the coast with full on crack climbing!

Setup Beta: To lead this route you can either build an anchor about 45ft up where the crack becomes filled with plants(rap off a tree from the top to clean, or to set a TR) or head right over a face climbing bulge(10+ish) protected by micro gear, and scramble up dirty ledges to the top, R/X rated.

Location 

Around the arete from dizzy dial.

Protection 

BD .2-1, doubles in .3-.5. Some of the best, most solid pro at Patrick's Point, but fiddly to place. for the anchor you'll need 2 #1's, a .75, and a .5, plus 2 ropes and 2 cordelletes,if rapping in to TR.


Photos of Dirty Thoughts Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: another shot of the crux finger section
another shot of the crux finger section

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