|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||vanishing spy on Mar 20, 2009|
|Comments on Dirty Swing||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Derick L
From: Philadelphia, PA
Oct 11, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
|Slight overhang crux in the middle, but good jugs. Distance between last bolt and anchors a bit long and might seem scary, but you can find good spots for your feet. Route goes up between two sets of anchors, and the ones on the left are a little easier to get to.|
By Kurt G.
From: Reading, PA
Nov 9, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
|this is a good route with a slight lean back crux after the 2nd bolt. kind of weird to get to the anchors, you have to traverse to the left and up and over making cleaning the route awkward (hence dirty swing).|
By Justin Chapman
Jan 4, 2016
Did not read the comments before climbing this....took a fall from between the last bolt and the anchor(s) while I was balanced on a ledge making up my mind about which side to finish out on...didn't have chalk, girlfriend was belaying (much lighter than me and wasn't anchored in because I thought "it's only 5.7"), I think probably was on some loose rock or something and just came off. Took a ~20ft unexpected fall. Legs were outstretched and knees locked...didn't deck but hit a ledge on the way down that my ankle paid for. Fractured talus, got a couple plates in there now and haven't walked in a few months (with a few more to go).
Anyways, moral of the story, scope it out first, watch out for loose rock, and make sure your belayer is awake :) Up until things went awry I remember the climb being fun!