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Surprise Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Awe-rete, The TR 
Called on Account of Grain TR 
Dirty Surprise T 
Eye of Horus T 
Flittering Fingers TR 
Grainy Day, Dream Away TR 
Trembling Toes S 
Unsorted Routes:

Dirty Surprise 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Herb Laeger, December 1977
Page Views: 548
Submitted By: Randy on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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A fast cleaning of Dirty Surprise.

Description 

This route heads up the obvious long crack system on the right side of Surprise Rock. Don't let the name disuade you from climbing this route. Other than a few loose flakes at the bottom, the route is quite clean and long.

A few hard moves near the bottom lead to fairly straightforward climbing in the middle of the pitch. However, near the top, where the crack disappears, the climbing is both well protected and challenging.

Protection 

Good variety from 0.25 to 2.5 inches. Two bolt anchor. Rap off from Trembling Toes anchor to the left.


Photos of Dirty Surprise Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A little tricky getting up into the pod to your fi...
A little tricky getting up into the pod to your fi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Surprise Rock west face.  Dirty Surprise starts at...
Surprise Rock west face. Dirty Surprise starts at...
Rock Climbing Photo: "Dirty Suprise". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Dirty Suprise". Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Dirty Surprise Add Comment
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By C Miller
Administrator
From: CA
Feb 7, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a really enjoyable climb with good rock, bomber gear and varied moves in a pleasant location. The crux comes at the end where face moves off your gear reach the belay ledge. Memorable enough to warrant three stars out of five.
By Murf
Feb 7, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The grain at the bottom leaves something to be desired, but it improves with height. I thought the exit moves were cranking a bit for 5.9, but I'll blame it on uncomfortable shoes.
By ssp
Nov 30, 2011

We did this one back in the late 80s and again in the early 90s.A fine secluded long route with a nice hike to get to it thru the Wonderland.
Just brush away any loose grit and move on up. Although I recall no grainyness back then. Be sure to try and find the ancient red pictograph handprint on a huge boulder on the way in. If ya do let me know. BTW this is not a hoax, the handprint is the real deal.
By Eric T.
From: St. Augustine, Florida
Feb 10, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Decent climb. The top is definitely the crux on thin gear.

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