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Dirty Rotten Scoundrel 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
Season: Spring & Fall
Page Views: 2,052
Submitted By: Allen Freeman on Jun 2, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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Getting to the overhang...


Climb left-facing dihedral through short chimney to ledge, continue to anchors.


Route starts in the dihedral left of Place Your Bet


Bolted anchors

Photos of Dirty Rotten Scoundrel Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Patrick Hines starting the moves past the overhang...
Patrick Hines starting the moves past the overhang...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark Glaspey on "Dirty Rotten Scoundrel"...
Mark Glaspey on "Dirty Rotten Scoundrel"...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dirty Rotten Scoundrel route.
Dirty Rotten Scoundrel route.

Comments on Dirty Rotten Scoundrel Add Comment
Show which comments
By David Gunnells
Jun 15, 2009

Bolted anchors at the top. Crux move is beneath the small overhang. You must move left out onto the face to pass the overhang. After passing the overhang, you come to a large ledge that is 10 ft below the anchors. It's really not worth it to try and climb past that ledge.
By Rmsyll
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Feb 20, 2011

What is 'Scoundrel' and what is 'KMA' has been confused by the anchor placement rather than previous natural anchors. The rope line strictly on the wider face (after starting in the dihedral) is 5.8, as Kelley gave to 'KMA'; and the dihedral is not 5.6, nor the right face. Current usage is to name the third set of anchors 'KMA' and ignore any reference to 'Scoundrel'. A lot of beginners have been tormented and terrified by being put on these anchors and goaded up behind the peculiar overhang no matter what. David's comment about the finish does not apply to straight up the white face below the anchors: that too is 5.8 unlike the little corner to the right.

By Walt Barker
From: Reno NV
Apr 8, 2012

Fun TR to warm-up. Climbed on the face the right of the dihedral. Much harder than 5.6 if you don't use the dihedral.
By Vince Buffalini
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Mar 25, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

DRS is an excellent trad lead for a beginner leader. The dihedral offers a great variety of protection and the climbing is straight forward and fun.
By Benandstuff
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Jun 4, 2015

¡I got stuck in the chimney!

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