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'Lectric Granny T 
Astroprojection T,S,TR 
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Dirty Rotten Horror 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 138
Submitted By: Charles Konopa on Sep 8, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Astroprojection climbs the face, Dirty Rotten Horr...

Description 

Dirty Rotten Horror climbs the corner just right of Astroprojection. Either start at the base on the road or up on a ledge. The first few moves are easy, but the climbing begins at a couple of fantastic pockets. Involves some strenuous liebacking and some fun reaches. Smear those footholds...the rock is surprisingly grippy. Higher up on the route avoid pulling on suspect horns, they aren't needed anyway. Set up a trad anchor at the top, curving to the right; or angle left to the anchors of Astroprojection. We used this climb as an exit route at the end of the day.

Protection 

We toproped this climb using the anchors of Astroprojection. If trad leading, I'd suggest a set of stoppers and microcams, though there are some placements for large gear. I'd be wary of slinging the horns for which this climb may be named.


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By Nathan Fisher
Apr 9, 2006

Tried to lead this today, and I didn't like the first three pieces I placed, so I backed off. Save it for another day.
By Tea
Jun 7, 2006

fun moves laying back to grab the bucket at the roof. Gear does look a little thin and flaring though.
By zoso
Jan 29, 2009

Good place to practice easy aid solo.
By Daniel Winder
Nov 29, 2012

There are about 4 bolts on this route now. Also, the anchor bolts have multiplied.
By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Nov 29, 2012

See Jazz the Glass.
By Jacob McLaws
Jun 24, 2013

Is rapping down from Astroprojection ok for this route? Then using Astro for top roping?
By zoso
Jun 24, 2013

Well let's see....
You could:
1. Try reading the route description, or
2. Note where the anchors on Astroprojection are, surmise the fall line from them (remembering that gravity pulls things straight down), and maybe set a directional if needed.
By Sam Cannon
From: Salt Lake City, UT
6 days ago
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

For a laugh go read the comments on Jazz the Glass (the bolted line on the lip of the arete).

I looked at the line and read the comments and decided to go for the lead. Glad I did! I thought the movement was thoughtful and exciting, the gear finicky but sufficient, and the line obvious. I was able to get a purple and yellow Metolius in while hanging from the bucket-holds on the roof which helped me to feel secure pulling up into the next section.

I didn't clip the bolts on Jazz the Glass, I felt like it would've done awkward things with the rope and the gear seamed sufficient for my taste.

Gear wise doubles in micro cams will serve you well and then singles up to a #1 camalot. My critical pieces were two purple and a yellow Metolius micro cams. I placed one small brass offset nut as well.

Thought this was a super fun line! I liked it as much or more than its more popular trad-neighbor to the right, though it was a touch bolder; 3 stars within the context of Parley's.

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