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BETA PHOTO: Dirty Love and Sheik Yerbouti.
Dirty Love is one of the better routes on the Tooth. Some non-standard moves makes the climbing funky in a very fun sort of way. The features are all there, but stringing them together is the business. Climb up and to the right of the 2 small bushes... a few stem-jam-body-contorting moves later, climb through the bulge into a nice jam crack. Follow this up to the arete. Climb directly up the arete for a couple of moves until you can step back left into the dihedral. Jam/stem up to the top.
The poodle bites!
The poodle chews it!
Start at or 15' left of the orange dihedral. The orange dihedral is also the start to Sheik Yerbouti
and The Central Scrutinizer
, located on the right side of the Cavity. See the photo.
Standard rack, with double #2/3 Camalots and a chunk of wide gear to protect the funk-o-rama.