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Dirty Love 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,142
Submitted By: saxfiend on Apr 19, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Don't trespass outside SCC boundaries MORE INFO >>>


The origins and name of this nice trad line are unknown; Curt and Betty Jo Merchant said it was used back in the day as a warm-up for harder climbs. The current name is a reference to the lichen and dirt that's gathered on the route after years of disuse, but with more traffic, it should clean up quite nicely.

Starting just left of a gully, climb the face with good protection on mostly juggy holds past an overhang or two to anchors at the top.


Starts near the end of the trail up from the parking lot, just left of a prominent steep gully/chimney. Rap from the anchors.


Mostly small to medium gear; nuts and tricams are useful. Newly-installed ring anchors at the top.

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By pmorleySCC
From: Huntsville, AL
Apr 19, 2009

John...thanks for coming out yesterday. Was a blast hanging with you and pulling. Let me know if you need a place to crash when you come back to YB.
By Brandon.Phillips
From: Portola, CA
Feb 10, 2014

This is a fun route. Its a tall moderate and a great top rope for newer climbers. I personally felt that on lead it does not protect well. I feel that way because most of the pro is slinging horns, some fairly small. I have never taken a whipper on a slung horn, but it didn't make me feel warm and fuzzy. I also got a few less than ideal small to medium cam placements and a big nut. The nut was then only piece I really felt good about.

With that said, the climbing is really secure and fun on big jugs. I never felt scared, but I wouldn't lead this if 5.7 on gear is your limit.
By Brandon.Phillips
From: Portola, CA
Oct 7, 2014

I lead this again a few weeks ago, and found a couple of small cam/ and medium to large nut placements that I missed the first go round. The pro is all there, and I think it protects a lot better than my first impression.

With that said, the route is pretty clean and fun climbing on very secure holds. Makes a great toprope if you are taking friends out who are new to climbing.
By tophersanders
From: Birmingham, Alabama
Apr 3, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I agree, very great route for beginning leaders.
By Codey Sivley
From: Decatur, AL
Oct 26, 2016

Bring slings! Lots of horns to hit with a clove hitch, and deep cams need a long extension to prevent drag. I didn't place metal pro until I was halfway up. Anchors are currently steel permadraws for your convenience.

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