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Dirty Love 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 71
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 7, 2002

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Chris Parks gets some 'Dirty Love' humping the are...

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  • Description 

    Do you love dirt? How about lichen?

    Approach the crag as described in the rock description, and go up the slot to the small rock ledge at the base of the cliff, as for Right Crack.

    Rack up and step onto the wall up and right. Immediately step left and begin working your way up a broken crack system, up and toward the top of the rock, staying mostly to the left side. The crux is either at the bottom, or just below the middle of the route, depending upon your skill sets. Toward the top head up and right under a bulge to finish directly under the rap anchors (2 bolts with chains)

    There are some significant runouts on this route, which is covered in lichens in some spots, and crumbly in others. Some craftiness with gear is required to lead this route at all. Serious injury would be the potential consequence of a fall.

    This route is a 1-star route because the moves were fun, but if lichen bugs you, you might consider this a bomb.

    Protection 

    A set of stoppers and a set of cams, from small TCU to 2.5"

    This can be TR'd from the rap anchor with long slings or with a directional to keep the rope out of a nearby slot.


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    Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Parks gets the feeling that some 'Dirty ...
    Chris Parks gets the feeling that some 'Dirty ...

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