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(4) Gold Wall
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Afternoon Delight T 
Beyond the Glory S 
Bitterroot T 
Chaos T,S 
Dirty Jugs S 
Ganesh  T 
Kung Fu S 
Masterpiece Theatre S 
Screaming for Change T,S 
Siddhartha T 
Sweeping Beauty S 
Whine and Cheese S 

Dirty Jugs 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Kevin and Maggie Evansen, Bryan Smith, 4-05
Page Views: 1,926
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Dec 21, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (62)
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At a section of boxy, jagged rock to the right of the prow of Masterpiece Theatre, locate a bolt about 10 feet up. Climb through easy blocky rock and avoid manteling onto the small ledge by going left. Make moves off of the first ledge, style points for not belly flopping, and up to a second ledge. Onwards and upwards through what are now not-too-dirty jugs, to another good stance, and a last slightly tenuous reach move to obtain the anchors.

You could also go right at the second big ledge onto Sweeping Beauty. This is the recommended approach for that route.


Right side of Gold Wall, left of suspended block and the deep corner of Sweeping Beauty.


10 bolts + 2-bolt anchor

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By Ebb Ebbing
From: Vancouver, WA
Jun 6, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A couple of very awkward spots on the lower portion, which are harder than they would appear at first glance given the size of the ledges that you have to work with in these areas. However, the holds aren't right where you'd want them and/or bulges get in your way. The "jugs" come out once you reach the top portion, and fortunately aren't too dirty these days. This portion is a bit steep, so the jugs are nice to have to hang on to! I'd give the top 3 stars, but the bottom 1 star (so averages out to 2 stars).
By b0t23
From: Portland, Oregon
Aug 3, 2015

Lower section is quite awkward with some moves being over ledges.

There is an anchor about halfway up you can end there or continue the full climb.

Upper sectionis glorious and slightly overhung with a great view.
By Mitch Jacky
From: Portland, OR
May 9, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Being taller than most, I had little trouble with those awkward chest-high ledges but I can see how they might be prohibitive to the more diminutive climber. Beyond that stuff, however, there is some fun 3 star climbing which is very representative of the grade. Just don't fall of you'll bust your shins same as on any Ozone route.

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