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Dirty Dozen 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mark Sprague 9/95
Page Views: 987
Submitted By: lee hansche on Sep 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Climb the corner to a few tricky face moves just as for Twelve Pack, but at the ledge move right instead of left and head up the blocky looking steep section. The crux is about 10 feet off the ledge so make sure your belayer is on his or her toes.

This crux bulge is troubling but can be done a few ways. Continue up making full use of interesting holds and good stemming. The rest of the route is a bit more moderate, but its not a gimme by any stretch. It can get a bit pumpy depending on whether you figured good beta in the crux and how much you like stemming.

The last 25 feet were my favorite part for sure.


Starts the same as twelve pack in the shaded often wet corner left of Lichen Dike


10 bolts to chains

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By twellman
From: Cambridge
Jul 19, 2009

I dont understand why the ratings arent better for this climb... It is long, technical, pumpy, well-bolted, all the elements of a classic climb. I think this is my favorite route at triple corners. There is a 25 foot runout between bolts 4 and 5, with about 5.3 climbing in between. I guess you could throw a sling around the tree midway if you don't feel like dying, but I'm pretty sure I encountered harder moves on the hike up.

By M Sprague
From: New England
Jul 13, 2011

I used to put a sling on the tree sometimes, but usually not, to not get rope drag. I often thought of putting a bolt in to replace the tree. It is very easy climbing where it is run out, but it is sometimes wet and a slip could very well be deadly. What do people think of another bolt? It would mess up the count for the "dozen" name, but might be worth it. I think it and it's sister are good climbs that more people might enjoy and I don't usually like to leave big runouts.

Is it needed, or fine without another bolt that might just add drag?
By twellman
From: Cambridge
Jul 13, 2011

I think another bolt would be helpful for the sake of safety. It is a bit out of character at Rumney to have such a runout, and most people probably don't carry slings for the tree. It is really a great route though.
By S. Neoh
Jul 13, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I have done this route several times over the years and I do think it deserves 2.5 or 3 stars. The climb gets better the higher one goes but many cannot see past the manky start. I do not think the said runout is bad. I did sling the tree the 1st time up but not since. Frankly, I am more concerned climbing before the 1st bolt of Clusterphobia/Metamorphosis.
More people should get on this route.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jul 13, 2011

OK, so maybe start with a recleaning of the start and then see how it looks.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 13, 2011

yeah it deserves a good cleaning and more traffic! i never worried about the run out but wouldn't complain about making a route safer either...
By S. Neoh
Jan 12, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

A short funny story - last Fall, I was warming up by Left El Diego, etc when a man walked around asking if he and his partner (now at the anchors of this route or Twleve Pack) could borrow a rappel device. I asked why and he said that the anchors are only "bolt hangers" and neither of them has a rap device (they both have Gri-Gri). So I gave him my ATC to use. But I did not have the heart to tell him they are many more routes at Rumney that require a rap (no q-links or beefy chains). So they might had to do more borrowing later that day!

Mark, do you happen to remember if this route or Twelve Pack only have Metolius Rap Anchors (and no quick links)? I do not recall.
I did however tell him that the "bolt hangers" are very likely Metolius Rap Anchors and are perfectly fine to rap from.
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jan 12, 2012

I don't know nowadays, Soon. I don't like those Metolius rap hangers at all, but these were two of my earlier routes at Rumney, before I started using glue-ins, and all I had. They should ideally have a pair of 1/2" quicklinks on each hanger. The Metolius hangers are safe, but are kind of hard on your rope and make it tough to pull. At least the guys in your story didn't rap off the tiny tree above like I saw some tradsters do once. I seem to remember Twelve Pack always having regular hangers and quicklinks or biners.
By A.Javi.Gecko
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 23, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I thought this route was REALLY GOOD. Challenging mentally and physically because ALL THE HOLDS FACE THE WRONG WAY. Loved it!
By Matt Nottingham
Apr 29, 2013

Dirty Dozen has the rap hangers, Twelve Pack has rap rings or quick links. I donated two biners to lower off Dirty Dozen. Dirty Dozen is SWEET. Kneebars, finger jams, awkward wrestling with blocky prows, and an exciting, somewhat insecure series of sidepull liebacks to the anchors. Loved it.
By Derek Jf
From: Northeast
Jun 24, 2014
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Had a great time on this line - interesting moves all the way. Climb this route
By JodiNA
Aug 16, 2014

Climbed it today (August 2014). Wasps! There were a few wasps at the midpoint right after the two routes split and a wasp nest in the juggy crack at the second to last bolt, after the crux section. When I stuck my hand into the bomber hold, a wasp flew out. Eeek!
By nomadian
From: MA
Oct 6, 2015

As others have said, this route is really a blast. It looks like it's getting more traffic and the bottom is a bit cleaner. I used two underclings through the crux that I didn't use the first time on it. Super fun.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 12, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Ian and I climbed this route after it had rained the night before. This made the dark, dank, manky, mossy start incredibly slick and greasy. Sport climbing excitement! But the upper part of the route was great.

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