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Dirty Dicky 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jan Wasylyk, Bryce Bateman, Paul McSorly - 2000
Page Views: 731
Submitted By: Mark Roberts on Jun 27, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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BETA PHOTO: Dirty Dicky Topo


Slanting left, wider route that branches out left from the start of Cardhu Crack and blazes its own less fun trail. When I did it last week it was quite wet inside the crack, with thriving bryophyte ecosystems deep within. Climb Cardhu instead if it's an option.

Oh, and watch the ends of your rope when you lower as the route's pretty long (shorter than Cardhu, but the ground below the anchors of Dirty Dickey is lower than it is under Cardhu). You might want to lower off to the right, even with a 70m.


Start as for Cardhu, climber's right of the crag. Branch left to the obvious wide crack line after three or four meters.


It gets wide, but you don't need wide gear because when it's wide it's kind of flary and unprotectable anyways. I have an inkling that if you were to take up a nut tool and scrape away at the non-vascular plant life you'd be able to place some bomber thin gear (blue/purple metolius?) in the back of the wide. Try it. Worst comes to worst you cleaned out the crack and performed a public service to all.

You're looking at a rack ranging from fingers to hands. There's bolts and rap rings at the top

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By Dirk Diggler
From: Boulder, Colorado
May 9, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A 60m rope requires some shenanigans to get off.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 3, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a really good line- I think I enjoyed it more than Cardhu. The wide bit up top is really well protected with medium gear, and the moves are really fun.

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