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South Bank - The Cracks
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L to R R to L Alpha
All My Heroes Are Heroin Junkies T,TR 
Dirty Crack T,TR 
I.V. Nightmare T,TR 

Dirty Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 91
Submitted By: Simon B on Mar 2, 2016

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Description 

Climbs okay, looks like butt. Crux is getting established in the crack; ~10ft of easy crack climbing leads to a large horizontal, and the route finishes straight up a short section of face climbing.

Location 

Start just right of the ominous protruding rebar and work your way into the obvious, left-most, left leaning crack. Follow this up to a large horizontal, then move straight up on face climbing. Trail access directly from the top of the climb; decent trees for top anchors.

Protection 

Very well protected. Single set of cams to 3" is good. Optional 4" piece for the horizontal near the top.


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