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The Cracks (South Bank)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All My Heroes Are Heroin Junkies T,TR 
Dirty Crack T,TR 
I.V. Nightmare T,TR 

Dirty Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 55
Submitted By: Simon B on Mar 2, 2016

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Crux is getting established in the crack; ~10ft of easy crack climbing leads to a large horizontal, and the route finishes straight up a short section of face climbing.


Start just right of the ominous protruding rebar and work your way into the obvious, left-most, left leaning crack. Follow this up to a large horizontal, then move straight up on face climbing. Trail access directly from the top of the climb; decent trees for top anchors.


The main crack takes gear ~2-3"; larger pieces can protect the horizontal directly after the main crack. Pockets on the top section will take tricams, but these top placements are of questionable rock quality.

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