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almost toprope TR 
Dirty Bush T 
Dragonfly T,S 

Dirty Bush 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Kelly Kropko / Mark Schlocker 11/2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 640
Submitted By: mschlocker on Nov 13, 2012

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Kelly kicking butt on her own route, Dirty Bush

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  • Description 

    A thin and flared seam leads up low angle climbing. The start requires traversing in past the namesake bush on a slab to the seam. Follow the seam up. Eventually the seam thins and arches left, follow this until it touches off on a hand crack. Pro the hand crack and traverse right to the last lead bolt of Dragonfly. Clip this and continue to the Dragonfly anchor.

    Location 

    Left of Dragonfly about 20 feet. Traverse in from the right, past a "dirty" bush blocking the base of the route.

    Protection 

    Not protected for the first 15 feet, which may be the crux. The seam takes small nuts surprisingly well. Thumb sized cams are useful, gear up to #1 Camalot. Slings for the traverse. Probably not a route to be breaking into the grade on.


    Photos of Dirty Bush Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Kelly Kropko on the FA of Dirty Bush.  Ground up, ...
    Kelly Kropko on the FA of Dirty Bush. Ground up, ...

    Comments on Dirty Bush Add Comment
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    By mschlocker
    From: San Diego, CA
    Nov 13, 2012

    The route seemed improbable to protect until closer inspection. The thin seams just had to be cleaned of dirt to reveal bomber nut placements. When Kelly asked me, what's that go at? I told her it doesn't protect so nobody ever did it. She clearly proved me wrong.

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