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Dirty Bomb 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Steve Gerberding, Al Swanson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 373
Submitted By: Murf on Nov 28, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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A fully equipped sport route with no offending easy section, what's not to like? Although a couple of medium nuts are nice if you belay from just under the slab.

Thin slab leads to a short overhang with pumpy moves to the face. Easier, but thoughtful climbing on perfect rock continues to the top.

A stellar route with two types of hard climbing, thin slab and overhung thin holds.


Walk around right and down from the Tax Man area, passing Butterflies are Free which shares an anchor with this one. Alternately, cross around the front of the wall and belay low with an easy 5th class scramble to access the route proper.


6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor with rings. If you belay on the shelf under the initial slab, medium size nuts.

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By Adam Stackhouse
Nov 28, 2011

I was wondering about that Murf
By toddgordon Gordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Nov 28, 2011

Dirty Bomb (Steve Gerberding ).....5.11+
Nov 28, 2011

The, uhhh, Miramontes guide lists it as .11a, which I found to be reasonably accurate by the sandbagtandards of Joshua Tree. I didn't lead it tho!
By Murf
Nov 28, 2011

Thanks for the name Todd, I've edited the description. Quite frankly, I didn't think it was .11+, maybe not even .11c. Did Joyride again the previous day and it may be harder, move for move.

FWIW My partner and I landed on "hard .11b" as our grade.
By toddgordon Gordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Nov 28, 2011

I haven't been on the climb....but I know Donny Ried and Epperson couldn't send...and I think Gerberding hurt his finger on the climb on the FA.......which they called I thought maybe 5.11+ (which means 5.11c/d) could possibly be in order......but with your latest up-date......5.11 rating (5.11b/c) sound more like it.......(sounds like splitting butthairs.....but it's best to try to be accurate with the ratings....). FYI, ...many people struggle with rating climbs;...Murf and myself don't;...we are right on the money 99% of the time.......
Dec 1, 2011

.11a, .11b, its all good! If I had overrated it in the book, THEN it would be a problem.

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