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Dirt Pockets, aka Lois Lame
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.4 from 9
votes
Routes in West Wall: Pummeling Sector and the Gothodrome
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Blind Date S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Dirt Pockets, aka Lois Lame S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Glamorama S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Misanthrope, The S |
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Only Human S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Pummeling, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R |
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Repulsion S |
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Sandman S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Tommy's 11+ S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Matt Samet, Bill Launder |
| Page Views: | 2,404 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Jan 23, 2003 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
Voluntary seasonal falcon closure notice for the Fortress of Solitude from February 15- July 31. The closures are route specific. The central super routes (Daily Planet to Flex Luthor) are open. Once nesting has been determined routes may open. No new routing (noisy power drills) can happen during this time period even in the open areas of the main cave. Any routes east of the main cave remain open. Please no caching of gear on Forest Service land. The Forest Service has been very cooperative in establishing this plan; please be responsible.The specific routes to be closed are listed below with numbers from the Rifle/ Western Slope Wolverine Publishing guide book.
For the left aerie: The Sandman (not in guide) 5. Lois Lame 8. Blind Date. For the right aerie: Ironman (not in guide) Snake Woman (not in guide) 17. The Kalous Logan 18.The Fuck Up
-Bryan Gall
For the left aerie: The Sandman (not in guide) 5. Lois Lame 8. Blind Date. For the right aerie: Ironman (not in guide) Snake Woman (not in guide) 17. The Kalous Logan 18.The Fuck Up
-Bryan Gall
Access Issue: Closures from February 15- August 15
Details
The closures as of now are route specific. In the main cave of the Fortress the whole west wall, gothdrome, and east wall/ bat cave areas are closed with nesting sites above those areas. Only the central super routes (Daily Planet to Flex Luthor) are open. Once nesting has been determined routes may open. No new routing (noisy power drills) can happen during this time period even in the open area. Avoid loud noises if at all possible. Routes east of the main cave are open. Please no caching of gear on Forest Service land. The forest service has been great in working out a very climber friendly management plan please be responsible!
Description
This is the first, or leftmost (southern) route in the Gothodrome itself. It climbs up the tan/yellow rounded buttress on the left edge of the cave on gently overhanging, sandy stone, with a fair bit of choss. (In fact, Dave Pegg, who originally bolted the line, was so unimpressed with the sand factor that he unscrewed his bolts and hangers from the holes.)
There is a belay bolt drilled into a block at the base of the route. I recommend you use it, as the sloping hillside and lack of a good stance mean you will be yanked *hard* into the wall if the climber falls off.
Make a leftward traverse to the first bolt (5.7, a little sketch), then climb the grey slab past another bolt, climbing carefully across the ledge/choss band where the slab hits the wall. Move up the wall past six more bolts on good, deep pockets, on stone that gets better the higher you climb, to a double-bolt anchor. Dave had bolted the route to go a bit higher (hence the bolt and bail biner you'll see above the anchor), but it ends at a pretty natural stance now as is.
You absolutely need a 60-meter rope for this one, as you lower out into space. Airy and sort of "out-there" for the grade.
There is a belay bolt drilled into a block at the base of the route. I recommend you use it, as the sloping hillside and lack of a good stance mean you will be yanked *hard* into the wall if the climber falls off.
Make a leftward traverse to the first bolt (5.7, a little sketch), then climb the grey slab past another bolt, climbing carefully across the ledge/choss band where the slab hits the wall. Move up the wall past six more bolts on good, deep pockets, on stone that gets better the higher you climb, to a double-bolt anchor. Dave had bolted the route to go a bit higher (hence the bolt and bail biner you'll see above the anchor), but it ends at a pretty natural stance now as is.
You absolutely need a 60-meter rope for this one, as you lower out into space. Airy and sort of "out-there" for the grade.
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