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Dirt Burglar (Project), aka STDF 

Hueco: V9+ Font: 7C

Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V9+ Font: 7C [details]
Page Views: 56
Submitted By: Christopher J Simpson on Apr 6, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Just too low. Shame.


Really obvious 45° overhang on hidden side of the boulder. Start on obvious edge, use any number of cool feet, go to intermediate or even make the huge move straight to the lip.

Would be absolutely killer if the ground were a mere four feet lower... would still be three stars if the ground were just one foot lower...

As it is, it might not go.


The thinnest pad you own.

Comments on Dirt Burglar (Project), aka STDF Add Comment
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By MaxMonn
From: Providence, RI
Apr 11, 2014
rating: V10+ 7C+

As Chris said, this problem is NASTY hard as is. the move from the start is either HUGE with no room to gain momentum or a full lockoff to terrible holds (a nearly invisible friction patch or the razor sharp mono crimp that the problem is named for. I don't think it goes as is.
By Joe M.
Apr 21, 2014

No one has a shovel????
By MaxMonn
From: Providence, RI
May 1, 2014
rating: V10+ 7C+

Joe, I was hoping my comment would bait Mark Sprague ;) Maybe next time I'm down I'll dig it out a bit (its mostly compacted organic matter) and see if it goes. at this point several people (chris, myself, and matt loon have tried it to no avail)
By Christopher J Simpson
May 7, 2014

Derek has also tried and agrees that it's just not doable as is. I could see a shovel expedition at some point, but I'm waiting for there to be more interest before I bother.

Has anyone repeated anything else on this boulder yet?
By MaxMonn
From: Providence, RI
May 29, 2014
rating: V10+ 7C+

Havent had the chance to really pull on your 7 yet Chris though it looks nice. I think maybe after the summer is past I would definitely go with you to dig out the project.
By JamieRe
From: Providence, RI
Sep 11, 2014

Chris I went out there mid august and it was so fucking humid but I managed to climb the 0 on the left. That proj though looks radical.
By Christopher J Simpson
Nov 19, 2015

It's time to go dig, and to reenforce the flake on the face out left... Anyone down for some gardening?

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