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Direkte Dachsteinkante S 

Direkte Dachsteinkante 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Langenbacher and Neu, 1953
Page Views: 25
Submitted By: Climb Germany on Jul 4, 2016

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The main feature of Dachstein is, as the name suggests, the "Dach" or huge roof. This route is the most popular way up, going right through the roof.

Overlal,it's 4 pitches (UIAA, 4+, 7-, 7, 4; or YDS: 5.5, 5.10a/b, 5.10b/c, 5.4) making it easy to start and finish, but rather challenging in the middle!

You'll top out at the castle wall, literally, which is bolted for belaying the second up the last pitch.


Starts at the arete, i.e. "kante" or corner of the massif and follows the logical line up. After pitch 1, stay leftwards towards the edge and ignore the routes further right which are closed. This goes for pitch 2,3 and 4.


Pretty well bolted with room to sling a rock tunnel along the way. You can supplement with trad gear if you desire, but it's not required.

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