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Big Tower
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Alternate Ending S 
Anonymous Bolter S 
Big Screen S 
Bonus Features T,S 
Brief Intermission S 
Bust a Move S 
Coming Attractions S 
Cult Classic S 
Director's Cut S 
Exit Stage Left S 
Held Over S 
IMAX S 
Little Crack T 
Roll Credits TR 

Director's Cut 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Erik Wolfe/ Skip Vasquez
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,760
Submitted By: MisterE Wolfe on Mar 3, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Tom Grundy sussing out the sequence on "Direc...

Description 

Just to the right of "Held Over". Start on the lower detached buttress past two bolts to gain the main left buttress of Big Tower. A longer draw for the third bolt reduces rope drag. 3 separate cruxes and enjoyable climbing on clean pockets and edges make this a fun outing.

Location 

Between "Bust a Move" and "Held Over" on the main prominent buttress of Big Tower. Start below on a small buttress below the main wall with 2 bolts.

Protection 

11 bolts, Mussy hooks


Photos of Director's Cut Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Skip on Director's Cut 5.10-
Skip on Director's Cut 5.10-
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on Director's Cut
Climber on Director's Cut
Rock Climbing Photo: Reaching the anchors on the FA of "Director's...
Reaching the anchors on the FA of "Director's...
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo topo of Director's Cut
BETA PHOTO: Photo topo of Director's Cut

Comments on Director's Cut Add Comment
Show which comments
By jefe Harte
Mar 16, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a great route with varied holds and climbing.
Beautiful position, fun moves, good rests, and well bolted.
This is a good route for climbers busting into 5.10.

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By BAd
Mar 22, 2016
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Super classic. This is a must-do route. It's everything Jefe said. Just. Do. It.
By Jeffrey Lieberman
Apr 4, 2016

Great route Erik. Lot's of cool features to party with...I had a good time doing this one...
By Erin Selvaggio
From: Sherman Oaks, CA
May 31, 2016

GREAT ROUTE ERIK!!! Climbed this last Saturday and believe it is an instant classic!! Great Line, like Jeff and BAd say... it's a must do with lots of cool features and great rests!! :) I can't wait to do it again!!! I only found one distinct crux but you're right at the bolt so go for it!
By James Barnett
From: Bishop Ca.
Jun 3, 2016

I did this route a couple weeks ago and felt it didn't compare to other 4 star routes in the ORG. I would knock a couple stars off off this route. Several of my regular Gorge partners have felt the same. Not trying to be a hater just trying to keep it real. Thanks for the effort in putting up the route.
By Arch Richardson
Sep 12, 2016

Good route. Some flakey rock, should clean up with traffic. Belayer should wear a helmet.
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Dec 28, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The climbing (moves) are good. The position is good. The rock quality is less than stellar (I pulled off a flake at the 4th bolt and got a sprinkle of stuff while lowering the Gazelle). IMHO, Wowie Zowie and Low Hanging Fruit are significantly better.
By David S.
From: San Francisco, CA
Apr 4, 2017

The only reason I don't give this four stars is because the first 15 foot block breaks up the purity of the line and the bit of choss still left along the route. The latter will obviously clear up with more traffic, and it'll be great then!

Beware that one of the very positive large rails about 2/3 of the way up did not feel of the most superior integrity.

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