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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unkown
Page Views: 160
Submitted By: ClimbandMine on Jan 25, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Looking up the 2nd pitch of Directissima.


From the base of Sunday Slab, Directissima climbs 100' past three bolts to a two-bolt anchor at mid-way. Rappel (you may have to leave a biner if its gone), or climb past two more bolts, then over a roof protected by a cam to belay at the top of the slab. Great route.


a half dozen draws and a light rack for the last belay.

Photos of Directissima Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave leading Directissima
Dave leading Directissima

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By daniel c
From: San Francisco, CA
Jun 1, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Run out to first bolt. Slab-tastic for sure. I felt like my feet were going to pop the entire way. But not that steep so 5.7 rating is fair.
By Will Rynes
From: Grovetown, GA
Oct 28, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

First bolt was slightly run out but not bad. The anchor at the end of P1 had webbing with a rap ring on it. Only found one bolt on P2 which had a sling girth-hitched through it with a carabiner on the end. The book that I have shows a two bolt anchor at the top which I never saw (might have missed it). Ended up traversing right, below the roof placing a couple cams, over to P2 of center crack. Clipped a bolt and finished at the two bolt anchor on P2 of that route.
By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Nov 25, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I'd say a solid 40'+ to the first bolt (placed 4'+ too high so you can't clip from the easy stance also) - exciting for sure.

P1 anchor had a single small quicklink on each bolt. Not exactly a good setup for rapping.

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