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The Beard
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Breakneck TR 
Col de Lui d'Aï TR 
Directe de la Momie TR 
Extrême Bec TR 
Fiddlers Elbow TR 
Inner Cheek TR 
Iron Bridge TR 
Louse, The TR 
Masada Lite TR 
Nose Hair TR 
Rough Skin TR 
Sormiou Grande Traversée TR 
Stubbl TR 
Tick, The TR 

Directe de la Momie 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 20'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 37
Submitted By: kenr on Jun 18, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: The Beard - SW + ENE face of L boulder and WSW fa...

Description 

Some thoughtful + fun moves. Too bad it's not longer.

Straight up to the "peak" (without using the big vertical dagger rock in the gully). Finish up left side of peak.

warning: as of 2016 there is still some big possibly loose rocks in the gully which have not been fully cleaned out. Belayer and other members of party should stay away from anywhere near below the gully between the two Beard boulders.

. (The print guidebook 2011 edition by Jon Crefeld has a boulder problem called "Splitter" somewhere around here, but not sure exactly what it is).

. . . ? name of this route ? . . .

Location 

On the Right one of the two Beard boulders, on its NorthWest face, up in the gully, start directly below the "peak" of the "ridge" between the top of the NorthWest face and the South-facing middle slab.

- - > see on this route photo

Protection 

To set up Top-Rope, see ideas on the area description page

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.


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By jon crefeld
Nov 21, 2016

I think Splitter goes right up the cleft in between the boulders!