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Apple Cider
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
3AM Handy T,TR 
Apple Cider T 
Birthday Crack T 
Charlie's Indirect (submitted as Travels With Charlie) T 
Chingadero S 
Contortionist T 
Corrections, The T,S 
Crimpin' and Pimpin' S 
Demolition Woman T 
Direct to Sweeney's T,S 
Easy To Remember T 
Green Puke T 
Heros Are Hard To Find T 
Matrix, The S 
One Man Sex Party S 
Pandora T 
Punta Magna T 
Slaves, The T 
Sweeney's Special T 
Tennis Shoe Traverse T 
Texas Sucks T 
Ticket to New Zealand T 
Valhalla T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Direct to Sweeney's 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c R [details]
FA: Ben Kiessel/Bill Grasse. FFA: Ben K.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 508
Submitted By: Bill Grasse on Apr 25, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Climbing :)


This is a line just to the left of the old [gear] route: "We Don't Need Another Hero." We have been looking at it for a while, so we put it up.

Fun face climbing leads to a couple of large moves right, then finishing on some tricky moves to catch Texas Sucks. Finish on the top moves of Texas Sucks, and if psyched, take it into Sweeney's for a full value 5.12 pitch!

We put this up as an option to connect to Sweeney's, but you can choose a number of different options after the bolts.


It is 15' right of Texas Sucks.


A double set from blue Aliens to #1 Camalots ought to do. Bring many runners and three draws as well.

Comments on Direct to Sweeney's Add Comment
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By Tim Kuss
From: Durango, CO
May 7, 2013

'Bout time someone made this into a legit route. Maybe y'all should add another bolt or two, get rid of that pesky "R" thing. People would do it. Just sayin'.
By Ben Kiessel
May 14, 2013

Tim were we correct in thinking that this was to the left of "We Don't Need Another Hero?". Or is this "We Don't Need Another Hero?"
By Bill Grasse
From: Carbondale, CO.
Nov 2, 2013

FYI: some rocks have disappeared from the top of this route making it more exciting than when we put it up. I would definitely say it has an R rating now.
By Gary N
From: Durango, CO
Jan 29, 2016

Fun. I climbed it to the anchors of Texas Sucks/Easy to Remember. I found appropriate gear the entire way: a yellow C3 deep in a pocket just after pulling up onto the no-hands rest, and a 0.4 C4 on the top part of Easy to Remember. Will definitely do again.
By Tim Kuss
From: Durango, CO
Feb 14, 2016

Yep, We Don't.. is to the right. Also just left of the start of Easy to Remember- on the outside corner.

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