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Stone Mountain South Face
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Captain Crunch T 
Closer to the Heart T 
Crystal Lizard T 
Direct Start to Arch T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Direct Start to Arch 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 776
Submitted By: Johnny O on Oct 3, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Placing pro at the overlap. This also shows a bett...


I have never seen this mentioned as a route and do not know who climbed it first but it is a completely separate line from the surrounding routes and deserves to be mentioned. If anyone knows the name, I would be happy to change it.

Begin on the ledge between Block Route and U-Slot, just under the V shaped notch in the overlap that is used as a variation for U-Slot. About midway between the ground and the overlap, there are some flakes for placing the only pro until reaching the overlap. Depending on what I have, I use from a .75 up to a #2 BD C4. A #1 or #2 C4 works best. Once above your pro, find the weakness in the bulge to the right. Move to the right until over the bulge and head straight up to the V-notch. Plug a cam or two, with runners, under the overlap and climb up through the notch to the trees.

Some may find it a little runout but that is just normal climbing at Stone. The route is safe and what pro can be used is solid. The climbing through the bulge just above the first pro is probably a little stiffer than the move through the notch, depending on your height.


Directly between U-Slot and Block Route. Climb straight up to the V-notch that is often used as a variation on U-Slot.


Solid but sparse gear. Cams work best. No fixed anchors. You could move off of the line to add a little more gear if feeling nervous.

Photos of Direct Start to Arch Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The move through the notch. There are excellent ho...
The move through the notch. There are excellent ho...
Rock Climbing Photo: A shot of the line up to the overlap.
A shot of the line up to the overlap.
Rock Climbing Photo: Placing the first pro.
BETA PHOTO: Placing the first pro.

Comments on Direct Start to Arch Add Comment
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By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Oct 27, 2015

This should be called "Alternate Start to U-Slot".
By Johnny O
From: Wilkesboro, NC
Oct 28, 2015

While many people do use the notch in the overlap as an alternate finish to U-Slot, the correct line for U-Slot veers slightly right from the top of the crack/corner system and heads straight up to where the overlap begins to dip, eventually ending at a set of rings. From the research that I have done, it appears the line was intended to stay on the protection-less slab all the way up to the overlap, once leaving the corner. However, most climbers tend to follow features that are protectable, which leads them to the left, towards the notch. That is fine if it makes the climber feel more comfortable but it does take away from the runout nature of just stepping to the right onto the slab and shooting straight up to the rings on the tree ledge. It's the lack of pro that makes it exciting.

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