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Durrance Approach
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Black-Jones Direct T 
Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route T 
Direct Southwest T 
Double-Edged Blade T 
Durrance T 
Fritz's Fantasy S 
interesting problem below, The T 
Late for Dinner T 
Liken Lichen T 
Lovely Liana T 
Manifest Destiny T 
P.O.T.C. T 
Pseudo- Wiessner T 
Rangers Are People Too T 
Sundance T 
Tunnel Vision T 
Wiessner T 

Direct Southwest 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FFA: H. Barber, A. Greene, '78
Page Views: 5,664
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 5, 2001

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First pitch of Direct Southwest is easy and a lot ...

June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Approach Via the Durrance approach and head left at the cliff base to reach the SW corner. At the SW corner there are a number of shorter colunms that reach a height of perhaps 100'.

The dihedral at the right hand edge of the right-most of these colums, beginning as a ever-steepening slab is "Rangers Are People Too." The next crack left of this, on the left side of the right-most short column, is the fist pitch of Driect SouthWest.

P1: (5.7, 80')Climb the crack described above for 80' to a ledge with a fixed belay.

P2: (5.11b, 100')This is the route 6 pillars to the right of the dark, left-facing dihedral at the right hand side of the attached photo.Step right on the ledge and get into a left-facing corner with an off-fingers to fingers in the corner, the crux is 25' fromt he top or so- more sustained than it is technically difficult. Belay from the fixed anchors. A single 60M or 70M rope should get you down in 2 raps from here.

P3: (5.9, 150')You need 2 ropes to continue... I have not done the 3rd pitch, but reportedly the climb continues up a crack on the left for a short while before traversing right, to keep the difficulty at 5.9... then continues up for 150' total. From there you can climb one of a few easier systems to reach the top (5.7, 70')


A good set of nuts and cams, with a few extra cams, particulatly in the .75" to 1.5" range, which is the crux size as well.

Photos of Direct Southwest Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Taken June, 2000
BETA PHOTO: Taken June, 2000
Rock Climbing Photo: The Stellar "Direct Southwest"...
BETA PHOTO: The Stellar "Direct Southwest"...

Comments on Direct Southwest Add Comment
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By Joe Collins
Sep 8, 2003

Regarding the gear beta above for pitch 2, the size range is more .75" to 1". Anything larger than a red alien is pretty much useless. Awesome crack climbing!
By Jim McGuire
Dec 24, 2003

It is interesting that the first pitch is described in the guidebook as bing 75ft and Rangers..APT right next to it is described as being 120ft. They are both in fact 120 ft and a 60M rope for descent needs a little downclimbing. This climb is nice for a quick, easier one pitch lead with a thin crux move low down that is similar to the first pitch of New Wave. There are not a few loose blocks near the top that warrant caution.
By TomKingsbury
Oct 16, 2007

possibly the pitch on the tower!
By Petsfed
From: Laramie, WY
May 25, 2009

The first pitch is an all right lead in its own right. Not really great, but certainly not bad either. A 70m will just barely get you all the way down. Be wary of the loose blocks at the top.
By Lucas Barth
From: Devils Tower, WY
May 10, 2016

Some of the stacked blocks on top of pitch one have fallen down. Be careful as there is still some smaller loose rock debris as of April 2016. It can be climbed around with care.

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