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interesting problem below, The T 
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Direct Southeast 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Steve Hong, Mark Smedley and Karin Budding
Page Views: 1,020
Submitted By: t.schwartz on Jun 20, 2011

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Direct southeast.

June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Direct Southeast is another great 5.11 finger crack at the Tower. Pitch one is small fingers with intricate lie-backing, trust a foot and escape to the arete or stay in the crack the whole way (90 ft). Pitch two continues up the sustained finger crack with a defined crux at about 100 ft, the climbing then becomes easier and opens up to a nice hand crack (130 ft).


Rappel Bon Homme Variation


Good protection, small stoppers and cams, hand size pieces for the top of pitch two, a couple fixed pins on each pitch, bolted anchors for pitch one, pitch two requires a #2, #3, and #4 camalot for an anchor.

Photos of Direct Southeast Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lucas Barth starting up direct southeast.  The blo...
Lucas Barth starting up direct southeast. The blo...

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By Sean Nelb
From: Indian Creek
Sep 15, 2012

This is a great route. It has numerous difficult moves but has some rests in spots. Both pitches can be linked together quite readily with a 70m rope. A few anchoring options in the meadows are limited, but you can also use Walt Bailey Memorial's bolts.
By Jordan Collins 1
Oct 5, 2016

The first pitch on this route is short well protected and locker. If you are not feeling like doing the whole climb, just this pitch is pretty phenomenal and has a rap station. Soft 11a.
By Lucas Barth
From: Devils Tower, WY
Oct 21, 2016

A #3, #4 and #1 camalot worked great for me to make an anchor just left of the Walt Bailey bolts. I wouldn't recommend using the Walt Bailey bolts as an anchor as they are too far to the side. On the route I placed many small cams, offset cams, and some medium and small nuts, and cams up to .75 camalot. For larger gear a single #1 and #3 seemed sufficient. Linking the pitches made for a mega classic pitch and avoids the hanging belay! Overall the route felt in the same character as Hollywood and Vine, just harder.

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