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Direct south ridge T,S 

Direct south ridge 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 8 pitches, 1100', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: B Honegger, A Müller
Season: late winter through late autumn
Page Views: 22
Submitted By: Colin Winter on Jul 24, 2012

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The delicate crux of pitch three, 6a


A great route up the prominent south pillar.

A good topo can be found in the plaisir ost guidebook.

P1: 5c+, perhaps the very best pitch of the route, with a brilliant 30 meter flake from the ground to the anchor (also makes finding the base of the climb very straightforward)

P2 6b+, one short, strenuous layback sequence gives the grade, can easily be aided

P3: 6a, up left into a gully, then out on and up a slab with micro crimpers

P4: 5b, nice, steep terrain on good holds to anchor underneath a roof

P5: 5c, left out and around the roof, then straightforward and enjoyable climbing on generous flakes

P6: 6a, more of the same

P7: eases off into scrambling terrain, with final anchor to end the technical climbing (can abseil back down the route from this point).

Continue up to peak, or traverse east towards grassy patches to gain the descent gully (may want to stay roped up in early part of traverse).

Route is bolted, but a small assortment of cams / nuts can supplement what's there. A single 50m rope does the trick, unless you plan to descend by abseil.

Photos of Direct south ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch five of the direct south ridge, 5c
Pitch five of the direct south ridge, 5c

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