Direct South Ridge, Garnet Traverse Variation
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BETA PHOTO: The buttress is foreshortened in the upper part of...
A variation to the Direct South Ridge that tackles the steep headwall near the top of the ridge. Where the main route traverses to the right, this goes straight up. We found the crux to be getting through the obvious black rock band about 100 feet up the buttress. A fixed pin here indicates you're on route.
Follow the South Ridge through 5-6 pitches past the 5.7+ lieback crux. From the belay just above, follow the ridge close to the arête through a few steep sections, belaying at a ledge directly below the steep upper buttress. The next pitch is the money pitch, heading straight up over blocks through the black roof band, then traversing left just above to a hidden corner/flake. Follow this to a small ledge and belay below another flake. From here, choose your own adventure up until the angle eases. Ortenburger mentions a thin 5.8 traverse here, but we didn't find it necessary. From the ledge above, unrope and scramble to the summit.
Standard Teton rack, one fixed pin at the crux
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