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Climbing the Direct Route.
A great route, but, no beginner lead and quite possibly x-rated (R+ in the guidebook). Blowing it to the first and/or second bolt would have severe consequences.
That said, fun climbing. Classic Pinnacles.
Lean over, start up the committing moves to the first bolt, and keep a darn cool head. Or, TR it by climbing another route to the summit plateau.
Starts on the pedestal just north of Lunch Rock. Rappel route from anchor bolts on the SE corner of the summit boulder.
4 very well spaced lead bolts. Scary!
Makes sense that some semblance of belay anchor take place as a fall prior to the first bolt would have dire consequences for both the leader and belayer. Maybe take a set of gear and put something bomber in.
By kevin deweese
From: Oakland, Ca
Oct 23, 2012
There is a bolt on the ground that the leader can anchor into (and prob should until the first bolt it clipped)
From: Los Angeles, CA
Nov 23, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
This is severely heady start, even for a strong 5.10+ climber.