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Northeast Shoulder
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Direct Northeast  T 

Direct Northeast  

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Zach Orenczak and Rachael Lynn 2005
Season: Summer, Fall
Page Views: 446
Submitted By: Zach Keeney on Jul 7, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: The route and the rap line. When rapping from the ...

Description 

The beautiful remote setting, mind blowing exposure, and fantastic climbing will make this a memorable adventure. The climbing consists of mostly hand and finger crack through several roofs with many edges for face/foot holds. The Laramie Range guidebook mentions the route can be done in 2 pitches, however we did in 3 to avoid rope drag.

Pitch 1 (5.6)

Probably a couple of ways to start this, all of which are no harder than 5.6 and will lead to a low angle right facing corner that gradually becomes steeper. We stopped and belayed approximately 5-feet below the first roof.

Pitch 2 (5.9)

Crux pitch! Climb through the first roof (mostly hands with great feet). There is a pinched chock stone (that thing isn't coming out but it is thin) at the end of the roof that acts as a jug. Climb nice fingers to the next roof and pull through it. The next section only takes small (0.4 C4 and smaller and offsets are nice) gear and it takes a little thinking to place but it is there. This section is a little balancy and for me was the crux. Enter the overhanging chimney with a finger and hand crack in the back. A #5 Camalot was nice towards the top of the chimney. Do some awkward exposed moves and we belayed approximately 5-feet below the great roof.

Pitch 3 (5.8) The Great Roof

This thing looks like it will be 5.12 from the start of the climb but it is mostly hands and there are really good feet the whole way making most of the climbing 5.7 with a few 5.8 moves. The exposure is AWESOME here! Turning the roof isn't bad. Follow a 5.6 hand crack to the top of the formation.

Decent

There are 3 sets of rap anchors on the northeast side. They aren't super easy to find but they all consist of 2-bolts with a rap ring through each bolt and they are painted beige. You will basically be rappelling 30-feet to the left (as you face the climb) of the route.

Location 

Follow the obvious right facing corner leading to a giant roof on the Northeast shoulder.

Protection 

Standard trad rack. Extra small cams and a #5 Camalot is nice.


Photos of Direct Northeast Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Zach in the balancy section before the chimney.
Zach in the balancy section before the chimney.
Rock Climbing Photo: The great roof
BETA PHOTO: The great roof
Rock Climbing Photo:  Zach leading through the first roof.
Zach leading through the first roof.

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