Type: | Trad, TR, 120 ft (36 m) |
FA: | Unknown to me |
Page Views: | 1,604 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 29, 2004 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July:
Details
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Details
bouldercolorado.gov/index.p…>>>>>
Per George Bracksieck: The 1st, 2nd and 3rd pinnacles are NOT closed for raptor nesting.
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Details
bouldercolorado.gov/index.p…>>>>>
Per George Bracksieck: The 1st, 2nd and 3rd pinnacles are NOT closed for raptor nesting.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
A strange and interesting climb, but not of great quality. The rock leaves something to be desired here, and so does the pro- or lack of it. This route is a tremendous sandbag at the formerly published 5.7 grade.
Both I and my partner laughed our butts off when we discovered that the weird, blind crux hold was in fact, a "piece of shit" as we passed it. Petrified or not, it was amusing to be dangling your weight from a polished pile of bird-crap.
Approach Via the 'express' trail to the North side of the First Pinnacle. Perhaps 8 meters to the right of the obvious "NE Chimney" route at the left edge of the !st Pinnacle, a strange line of features and pockets climbs up for 8 meters, bumps left and up (crux, decent pro = large cam in a pocket) past the 'pile' hold, and up and right, runout in odd grooves and face moves. Once on a good ledge, bump left and continue up to the summit on easier terrain, with some pro. You will encounter 2 modern bolts to belay on, just west of the true summit.
You can TR this with a top belay, or *perhaps* with a 70m rope.
Rap to the East from an old eye bolt with a 60m rope. (50 PROBABLY OK, have not tried it), or scramble off West and North.
Both I and my partner laughed our butts off when we discovered that the weird, blind crux hold was in fact, a "piece of shit" as we passed it. Petrified or not, it was amusing to be dangling your weight from a polished pile of bird-crap.
Approach Via the 'express' trail to the North side of the First Pinnacle. Perhaps 8 meters to the right of the obvious "NE Chimney" route at the left edge of the !st Pinnacle, a strange line of features and pockets climbs up for 8 meters, bumps left and up (crux, decent pro = large cam in a pocket) past the 'pile' hold, and up and right, runout in odd grooves and face moves. Once on a good ledge, bump left and continue up to the summit on easier terrain, with some pro. You will encounter 2 modern bolts to belay on, just west of the true summit.
You can TR this with a top belay, or *perhaps* with a 70m rope.
Rap to the East from an old eye bolt with a 60m rope. (50 PROBABLY OK, have not tried it), or scramble off West and North.
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