REI Community
Bear Mountain
Select Route:
Direct North Buttress T 

Direct North Buttress 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 21 pitches, 2200', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: FA: Alan Kearney, Bobby Knight (1980) FFA: Bryan Burdo, Yann Merrand (1985)
Season: Summer
Page Views: 481
Submitted By: Eric Bluemn on Apr 16, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: My google earth topo

Description 

Remote, committing, stellar rock, commanding exposure, and an epic approach. This route has everything you could ask from a Cascadian classic and is my favorite in the range.

Approach: From the saddle, descend down steep scree trending skier’s right. You’ll cross several gullies and eventually reach the glacier that extends out of the couloir leading to the regular north buttress route. On the right of the glacier extends the toe of the direct north buttress. Continue up the glacier to the climber’s left of the buttress search for slabs that lead into a corner system heading up the buttress. Crampons and ice axe helpful to reach the slabs. 60-90’ approach from col.

Pitch 1-2: lead right up the slabs trending left into a broken slabby wall with multiple cracks. Climb cracks at 5.8 to reach recessed belay at the base of another crack/corner system.
Pitch 3: climb the crack to a roof (5.10-) – move through the roof and up to a small ledge belay.
Pitch 4: Continue up the corner to the base of a chimney system
Pitch 5: move through the chimney and belay above (can be linked with p4 but potential for bad rope drag)
Pitch 6: Traverse left past loose blocks (sketchy) and then back up right through thin cracks with sparse protection. Belay when good gear found and ledges seen on climber’s right.
Pitch 7: Traverse back right on a series of ledge systems until its possible to climb up on easy terrain.
Pitch 8: climb directly up on easy ground with sparse pro
Pitch 9-10: Climb up the ridge towards the snowpack, rock can be wet due to snowmelt. Simulclimb if comfortable.
Pitch 11-12: Ascend the face behind the snowpack via the lefthand crack to another large ledge. Walk left on a ramp system to join with the Beckey North Buttress route.
Pitch 13: Climb the strenuous left-facing corner/crack to another ledge on the buttress crest
Pitch 14-15: Two pitches up the ridge crest leads to the base of the offwidth.
Pitch 16a: Climb the offwidth at 5.10- (awkward with pack) past some fixed gear
Pitch 16b: Climb the start of the OW, then traverse right around the corner to easier ground (5.8) and belay at the top of the OW
Pitch 17: Continue up the buttress crest at 5.9
Pitch 18: Climb a long series of thin cracks to a small stance at 5.10-
Pitch 19-21: Continue up the buttress on easier ground ending on the ridgeline

From ridge, leave your rack and rope and head climbers left towards the summit pyramid. Solo easy ground (4th-easy 5th class) up the middle of the formation trending right until you reach the ridge that leads left to the summit.

Descent: Reverse your path down to the gear left at the top of the route. Head down snow slopes and navigate through several cliff bands to reach the basin beneath the saddle/camp.

Trip report 8/2016

Location 

North side of Bear Mountain, Chilliwack range. See approach beta in Bear Mountain main page.

Protection 

Full rack with cams to BD #4 (helpful on lower crux) with many slings. We brought doubles of mid-range cams. Route is a walk-off so single rope is acceptable. Approach to the base of the climb involves a short section of steep neve; crampons recommended and lightweight ice axe helpful but not necessary (as of 8/2016 - may be different depending on snowpack).


Photos of Direct North Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Bear Mountain North Buttress and North Buttress Di...
BETA PHOTO: Bear Mountain North Buttress and North Buttress Di...
Rock Climbing Photo: There are wild and delicious blueberries on the ri...
There are wild and delicious blueberries on the ri...
Rock Climbing Photo: Camping on the saddle (it was smoky due to BC wild...
Camping on the saddle (it was smoky due to BC wild...
Rock Climbing Photo: SUCCESS!!
SUCCESS!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from one of the last pitches. This is...
Looking down from one of the last pitches. This is...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dan entering the off-width (pitch...14?)
Dan entering the off-width (pitch...14?)
Rock Climbing Photo: This is bushwhacking.
This is bushwhacking.
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo of the gps data uploaded in the comments
BETA PHOTO: Photo of the gps data uploaded in the comments
Rock Climbing Photo: Bear DNB heading towards the roof on p3
Bear DNB heading towards the roof on p3
Rock Climbing Photo: Exposure on the OW bypass pitch of the Bear DNB
Exposure on the OW bypass pitch of the Bear DNB
Rock Climbing Photo: Sam on p2 after the approach slabs.
BETA PHOTO: Sam on p2 after the approach slabs.
Rock Climbing Photo: The direct north buttress (foreshortened). The sta...
BETA PHOTO: The direct north buttress (foreshortened). The sta...

Comments on Direct North Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nick Sweeney
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 17, 2017

Thanks for the good page on this route. Proud line for sure
By Alex Weber
Aug 8, 2017

My partner Dan and I tried this climb last year (2016) and experienced 3 days of total terror: first day was bushwhacking through devil's club, alder, blow-down, thickets, wasp attacks (many), etc. until we got half-way up the ridge. Second day was nicer with blueberries and nicer hiking, but we went too high and were cliffed-out from getting to the saddle. At this point we knew we weren't going to climb, so we tried to make it back to our car. NOPE. We ended up trying to take the river back, only to experience salmon carcasses and almost-hypothermia. Third day we somehow made it back physically - but not mentally - intact.
This year (2017), we went in with a machete and trail tape and marked/cut out a trail all the way from the beginning to ALMOST Bear Camp. Good enough. Hope others find this useful. Trust me, it was harder without the tape.
I will upload a GPS file soon.
As for the route:
I found the description in the McLane book to be AWFUL, and more often than not a single pitch in that book is either 70 full meters or MORE.
We did the a 5.7 'chimney' pitch at the very beginning (instead of by-passing it via the snow), by traversing right into a small roof/chimney via a ramp on the left. Fun.
Later, we ended up doing a variation that headed out left around pitch 8 instead of traversing out right to easier ground. This variation was full-on and awesome. The first pitch was this corner system through a roof (sort-of). It involves some really cool 3D climbing. After that pitch is a scary but awesome climbing over sketchy rock into a great corner (hands to off-hands). No idea what the grades were. 5.9 or 5.10-.
From here you can then traverse right and up to the half-way ledge in a single simul-climb.
Also, we missed the hands/fist crack after the first 5.9 after the half-way ledge. We thought we were done with the 5.9s and so we headed up what we thought was a 5.6 crest. NOPE. Something harder, dirtier, and scarier. WHOOPS
By Eric Bluemn
From: Worcester, MA
Aug 9, 2017

Alex - your 2016 experience sounds about right. Props for going back with the machete and hacking out a trail for the masses. Hope it lasts a while. Sounds like you got the full-on adventure for both trips.
By Alex Weber
Aug 10, 2017

gpx data:
goo.gl/vCBTjB

We ran out of trail tape around after the last alder to Bear Creek (~1km)
So if anyone wants to cut and tape that section, others would love you for it.
Hope this gps info helps people avoid what we experienced in 2016 :S

As for gear: we brought doubles from 0.3 to 3". We did the off-width and found we didn't need anything large (there are cracks inside that take small/medium gear)

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About