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Direct Madness 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: SG, RR
Page Views: 557
Submitted By: Geir on Oct 12, 2011

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Description 

A two pitch climb which joins Reefer Madness in its third pitch. Look for the left leaning flake system on the far right side of the north face of Aegir.

1) Climb the first tier of the flake system. The rock is a bit grungy in the first 20 feet, but flake afterwards is worth it. Save a few 1"-1.5" cams for the belay at the top of the first tier. Approx 80'.

2) Follow the thin crack on your right and pull difficult moves that trend up and left. Undercling the large flake and work up to the narrow ledge. Place some gear to protect your follower and move to the right side of the ledge to belay. This pitch felt significantly harder than 5.10, perhaps I missed something. Approx 50'.

3) Follow Reefer Madness to top.

Protection 

Nuts, singles to 4", for doubles of .5" to 1.5".


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By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 24, 2012
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

If this route is 5.10 then Rapture of the Steep is 5.9. Oh, and it isn't very straight forward. Aleix saved my bacon by pointing out a hold I had seen from the belay but couldn't see once I was on the route. Pretty cool committing climbing on good rock with just a little more lichen than you would prefer.
By Dj telle
From: Tucson, Arizona
18 hours ago
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Just climbed this again and here are some thoughts on the route

Pitch 1 - Burly .10 palms n hands to a ledge.
Pitch 2 - pull hard on layback finger crack with shitty feet up to some bigger holds then hug the giant flake
pitch 3- move right on ledge to .9 finger crack then traverse under giant roof to the right side and belay
pitch 4- 5.6 to the summit (30ft)

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