|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches, 330', Grade II|
|Original:||YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]|
|Submitted By:||Luc-514 on Sep 29, 2010|
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By Francis Kerdevez
Jul 15, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
According to the printed guide, this is a 4 pitch climb but you can link pitch 1-2 and 3-4. You will need 2 ropes to rap down or use the trails to walk down.
P2: 5.5/5.6-(R ...maybe X)
P3+4: 5.6G (in the guide book there's a trad belay anchor...just link the 2 pitches. The end of P4 is bolted)
About P2: I recommend setting a belay at the first bolts you'll encounter to reduce drag to make things easier because the second pitch is about 5.5/5.6- R...maybe even X. There's a lot of loose flakes/small holds and even several loose blocks of rock during the runout. I managed to place a bomber Camalot #2 just before the half. A fall during the last 3/4 of the pitch would have horrible consequences, otherwise this pitch is a nice mental challenge and very rewarding in the end.
For the grade you get a lot of exposure and an excellent view.
From: Montreal, Quebec
Apr 25, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Easily done in two(2) long pitches:
First pitch 5.6PG13-5.7R:
The first section to the big ledge (with a couple glue-ins) isn't much of a pitch but setting runners on it will help higher up (also have your belayer feed out rope because it starts weighing a lot up there).
The vertical wall becomes the mental crux of the route, take it in the dead-center (pun intended) and it becomes R/X, spot a small vertical crack 2m below the horizontal with the pin in it? That vertical crack is a loose block (hairline crack) I pulled to test a cam and it flexes. reach the horizontal and protect it or clip the pin on its right.
The right side of the wall has more holds and apparently pro.
Second pitch 5.7:
If the first roof seems too intimidating, you can always traverse left before the cedar bush, following Directissime until you can return in the corner on your right and pull over the second small roof unto the arete (amazing exposure on bomber holds!). Mantle unto the small ledge with two pins (optional belay), clip a double runner and keep heading up to the glue-ins on top (yell at the wall on your right to communicate with your second!).
If you're dealing with a weaker second or have issues communicating, I strongly suggest using that intermediate belay.