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Direct Beckey 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FFA: Reid Dowdle, Paul Potters, Marc Deforeaux, 1986
Season: summer
Page Views: 21,870
Submitted By: Clint Cummins on Jul 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (50)
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Composite photo showing bottom half of the route. ...


Very attractive direct line up the center of the wall, with several nice 5.10 pitches and a single hard move.


center of the SW face


standard rack

Photos of Direct Beckey Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Beckey would smile if he knew his original gear wa...
Beckey would smile if he knew his original gear wa...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up the 3rd pitch
Starting up the 3rd pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Spectacular climbing just below the 'Becky Bolts'.
Spectacular climbing just below the 'Becky Bolts'.
Rock Climbing Photo: Elephant's Perch - SW Face, Right  14. The Thorn B...
BETA PHOTO: Elephant's Perch - SW Face, Right 14. The Thorn B...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 7: The final pitch of the unrelenting first ...
Pitch 7: The final pitch of the unrelenting first ...
Rock Climbing Photo: topo of Direct Beckey by Reid Dowdle, with some ed...
BETA PHOTO: topo of Direct Beckey by Reid Dowdle, with some ed...
Rock Climbing Photo: We took the finger crack directly up and right fro...
We took the finger crack directly up and right fro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down P3, 10b. A short but fun pitch!
Looking down P3, 10b. A short but fun pitch!
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the "death blocks". These ...
Looking up at the "death blocks". These ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Finger crack and off-width pitch just below the Be...
BETA PHOTO: Finger crack and off-width pitch just below the Be...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ridiculous stemming up the amazing corner on Pitch...
Ridiculous stemming up the amazing corner on Pitch...
Rock Climbing Photo: Earl on p 2?
Earl on p 2?
Rock Climbing Photo: Almost at p1 crux
Almost at p1 crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Wonderful climbing on the 2nd pitch
Wonderful climbing on the 2nd pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Contemplating the very hard 1st pitch crux
Contemplating the very hard 1st pitch crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Look keenly to see JAG struggling up the 2nd to la...
Look keenly to see JAG struggling up the 2nd to la...
Rock Climbing Photo: stemming pitch on Original Beckey
BETA PHOTO: stemming pitch on Original Beckey
Rock Climbing Photo: beckey
Rock Climbing Photo: Becky route
Becky route
Rock Climbing Photo: JAG leading pitch 6
JAG leading pitch 6

Comments on Direct Beckey Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 23, 2015
By bheller
From: SL UT
Nov 27, 2007

Reid Dowdle rated this 5.11, that suggests 11b/c. To call it 11a would be a stout sandbag. Especially for the 11a leader. However, the crux can easily be surmounted by pulling on gear (french free Hoh,hoh,hoh!)
By mountainsense
Sep 16, 2008

but after the first pitch crux move, nothing but classic 5.10 all the way! my favorite route at the perch!
By Monica Jones
From: Bishop, CA
Aug 19, 2010

We did the first three pitches of the Direct into the 11+ corner on the Original Beckey and then rapped off. The corner is amazing and seemed easier than the grade suggests because there's lots of fixed gear and pins. Beautiful full on stembox the whole pitch, you don't even really touch the crack except for a few times. One of the coolest pitches of climbing I've ever done.
By drewford
From: Wasatch Back, UT
Aug 29, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Topo is a bit vague about the top pitches approaching the summit. When in doubt, head right.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 2, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

IN your face solid 5.10 the entire way with a pretty hard start pitch. The step over the first roof was balancy and hard. The rest of the route was classic old school 5.10 crack.
By Jeffrey Gagliano
From: Pennsburg, PA
Sep 13, 2011

Just climbed this two weeks ago. Lead every pitch. Incredible! After the first pitch (11b, IMO), the next 6 are solid & sustained 10 all the way. Only a few 9 moves here and there.
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Jul 25, 2012

Brilliant climbing. A few notes on each pitch:
1-Hard 11. Pull the roof and traverse to ledge is balancey and strenuous. Get stoked or yard.
2-fun liebacking up to short wide section. semi crappy belay
3-traverse right. hard thin moves above small nuts. cruxy. fun .5 jam crack to fat ledge.
4-wedged blocks. ridiculous climbing, some loose. take care not to kill your belayer. short ow section. #4 camalot handy but not necessary
5-great fingers section to lieback to chimney groove thing. longest pitch, super fun
6-best pitch of climb. chimney to crazy stems to roof jug pull on right. be ready for to clip piton over roof. short pitch
7-hard lieback straight up to fun double crack fingers and final roof pull to fat ledges.
Get on this one. You'll never do as many quality 5.10 pitches in a row outside serenity/sons
By Phil Esra
Sep 6, 2012

(If anyone finds a pair of Scarpa Technos, size 39.5, at the top, I wouldn't mind getting them back--sorry for the litter. Late August 2012.)

"In your face" indeed! Quite sustained. I found the fingers on p2 to be quite hard -- 11- in my book.

Way more classic, and much harder, than Fine Line, in my opinion.

Apparently most people traverse out right from the Beckey tree? We followed the topo straight up; if you do it this way, when in doubt, you should often trend left-ish. For the final pitch, you want the *second* gully/weakness on the left past the big chossy block at the base of the final headwall.

Lots of small to tiny gear. A single #2, and an optional single #3, should be plenty for most parties.
By kirkadirka
From: Boulder
Jul 26, 2013

We never found the loose flake described on the topo for pitch 2.

Stellar Line, better than the fine line.
By Jessica T
From: seattle, wa
Jul 13, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Spooky blocks which we avoided by going up the beautiful original Beckey corner with some aid.
By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Sep 3, 2015

Clean rock in a beautiful environment, with sustained, fun and varied movement - finger cracks, delicate face moves, stemming, chimney climbing, off-width climbing... Wow! One of my all-time favorite routes.

A technical 5.11a first pitch is followed by many solid 5.10 pitches. I highly recommend taking the 5.11+ dihedral of the Original Becky route in lieu of the loose blocky P4 of Direct Becky.

Gear beta - Most of the hard climbing is on thin gear, though if you choose to take the off-width pitch leading to the Becky Tree (in lieu of the face climbing on old bolts), a #3 camalot and two #2 camalots placed far back in the crack protect it well. We took RPs, many stoppers, a purple alien, triples in blue-red alien sizes (nice to have, but you might be fine on doubles), and doubles up to #2 camalot plus a single #3 camalot. A #4 Friend can be used in many places, but if you're trying to go lighter, I'd suggest leaving it behind.

Generally speaking, the odd numbered pitches are technically harder than the even number pitches (the exception being the Original Becky dihedral variation for P4). FYI in case you're swapping leads and you and your partner climb at different levels.

We didn't link any pitches, and I didn't see the opportunity to do so. Since most of the climbing is sustained, the belay breaks were nice - esp. when on the nice ledges. The easier 5.8 pitch-8 wanders, so linking didn't seem feasible before or after it.

The route beta for final pitches after the Becky Tree is rather vague - left, up, or right variations... With the impending weather it felt quickest to traverse left after the Becky tree past smaller trees, then straight up a 5.7/5.8 crack system to the top (this required some simul climbing on a 70m rope or a belay inside a protected chimney). From here, you traverse left 30m or so across slabs on easier but exposed terrain, then walk towards the south-facing descent gully.
By b Light
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 22, 2015

My rating - 5.10+ C1.
Each pitch is basically 5.10+ (imho) w/many boulder problems and good rests in between.
Finger locks, stemming, laybacks and good hand jams make up the a majority of the climbing.
The bolts below the beckey tree are 50+ year old and rusted completely thru. They are not to be trusted.

Rack Beta (from a safe/cautious climber)
11 Slings (two 48" sling, the rest shoulder length)
15 slings if you are linking
Full Set of nuts (BD size 1-13)
BD X4 Small Cams (red, yellow)
1 each of Purple, red and yellow BD C3
Three largest BD offsets (.3/.4, .4/.5, .5/.75)
2 - .3
2 - .4
3 - .5
2 - .75
3 - #1
2 - #2
1 - #3, #4

I had a mix of new X4 and C4 cams in the .75-.3 size
We placed the #4 on 5 of the pitches.
Route is in the shade until 12:30 PM
13 Hours tent to tent.
Approx 11 Hours on the route.
6 Liters of water for 2 people.
Started climbing at 7 AM. Topped out at 5:45 PM
At the Becky Tree, head toward 2 O'clock. Follow up easy traversing towards a short dihedral (30 feet or so in the dihedral), then a crusier, low angle hand crack until you hit a big wall (almost a full rope length). From that wall, head hard right, overcoming a roof crack (short pitch). Belay up there to have your partner near in case of a fall. The final pitch takes and arching crack and then backs off to the summit.

Great route. It was a day that I will remember for the rest of my life. Such great friendship, views, belays and climbing.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Sep 23, 2015

Hey b light- i had a similarly unforgettable day last time I climbed this route;) Just curious...did you know that usually on a rope V1= 11a and V3= 11c?

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